1st time welder

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My lincoln sucked maybe it was just a bad one. Sold it and the guy won't talk to me now. Crackedback is right. The voltage positions. My hobart has the same settind I use it alot but it never comes of the highest setting. I just went for parts . If you need them you have to convert to miller parts and its not cheap.

With a Miller welder you can usually buy only what you ned not all the conversion parts. Probably because they want you to buy a new Miller. Buy a Miller its a no brainer. and not a multi purpose . Would you buy a TV with a DVD built in . One goes bad you throw them both away.
 
I bought the 135 welderfrom Eastwood. It works great. Unless your going to spend a lifetime welding, its a great buy for the buck. The duty cycle is where the cheap welders suffer. When your welding car you don't do long welds anyways so you don't warp the metal. Spend the money for a autodarkening helmet, you won't be sorry.

I did have an issue with the trigger failing on the torchhead but Eastwood sent me a new one no problem.

Take a welding course at a vocational school if you have one around. Its worth it.

Good luck with the build
 
I would recommend the harbor freight auto darkening helmet. We've had 1 at work for years and it always works perfectly. I bought one for home and haven't had a problem. You see them in the flyers all the time for $30-35. I learned with a fixed shade helmet and it is a little hard to use them on your back under a car. I know it is hard to believe a harbor freight tool can be good, but these don't have any moving parts just made in china electronics.
 
Sounds like you have gotten a lot of good info, when you finally do get one practice, practice, practice before you jump in and attempt what you are planning.
 
Welders are great I've owned one for about 20 years now. Theres alot of good advise on here about welders but the best welder does not make a good welder ask any accomplished welder(which I'm not). Tubbing and spring relocation is not for the novice ask anyone that has done it. It takes about 10 hours each side. I'm not trying to discourage you just giving you a heads up . I would find someone that has done it to help you along. On Big Block Dart site tech pages there is an excellent tutorial step by step with pictures you can also get the spring boxes from Bill reilly's Altercations. Please research therolly before attempting your safety is most important.
 

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Check out some of the discount internet vendors. I found a Lincoln 180-something that had been a demo unit. Came with full factory warranty, but can't be sold as new. Got it for around $600 to the door. It's a 220v unit, but I fabbed up an extension cord so it will reach around my garage. Build my rotisserie with it. It's all .188 wall tubing and it rocked! Good luck. L8r
 
if you have the capability buy the 220v you will be hapier when you see your electric bill in the long run. if your like most people and have a electric clothes drier in the garage your home free just put the correct plug on the machine or make a extension cord. the main thing you need to look at on any welder is the duty cycle at different amperages. and if it is a mig see what size wires it can handle and what you have to do to change sizes. you can weld pretty much anything in the home shop atmosphere with nothing heavier then .030 wire. body sheet metal will be .023 wire, here is a good welding site to check out for good info and tips. www.weldingweb.com good luck and lots of practice and patience. also stock up on grinding wheels you will need them lol
 
I have the $90 Harbor Freight wire-fed welder. It works, but seems you must be a really good weldist to weld good with a cheap welder. I am a beginner. It will weld pretty thick steel, indeed burning thru an exhaust pipe is a bigger concern, so use the low power setting on any sheet metal. I have repaired car frames and even small body work with it. I butt-welded two exhaust pipes to save a trip to the store and it looked seamless after a little grinding. It spits molten metal drops when I weld, so protect anything within 3 ft, including yourself. My main problem is seeing what I am doing, which may be the auto-darkening helmet. Many times I end up laying a weld bead in the wrong spot.

Others will recommend only U.S. name brand, but will you use a >$500 welder enough to justify it. Of course, once you have a good hammer, you see a lot of nails.
 
mopwr2004a said:
buy the 220v you will be hapier when you see your electric bill
Click to expand...

Most of what you posted is correct except this. 120/240 has NOTHING to do with your electric bill. It MIGHT be possible in some cases that an "almost overloaded" "on the ragged edge" heavy 120V motor, like a compressor, might make a difference if you convert to 240, and it might not, either.

VA is VA, watts "is" watts and power is power.

Just because something is 240, does not necessarily make it more efficient.
 
so I went out today and bought a chicago electric welder from "harbor Freight" for $250. I really wanted a quality american made welder but for a first timer i just couldnt justify the extra money. On the plus side I got a 2 year warranty for $34! What is everyones experiences with Chicago electric?

Tomorrow I will go to the local welding supply and look at gas (im thinking an argon mix based on everyones responses). I am also going to pick up sheet metal so i can begin practicing. What gauge should I be using for my mini tub project?

I included a few pictures of the welder and my girlfriend wanted to model so we had some fun with it lol. Thanks for everyones input its greatly appreciated and I cant wait to get started welding!

-Gabe
 

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Definately go back and get that auto-darkening helmet.

The welding shop will know what the standard mix is- 75/25 Argon and Co2.

I would suggest NOT spending a bunch of time with the flux core.
Maybe three or four welds, just to get a feel for the equipment.
Once you get the gas going, it's night and day.
You can see the puddle, and it's less smoky, poppy and hardly any slag.
Plus the weld is nicer and stronger.
 
everybody knocks the harbor freight welder i use it and works good for what i use it for . yes the gas is better but if its all you can afford use the flux core welder .
 
Congratulations, don't rush 80% of any good weld is preperation and fitting, 20% is melting. Get comfortable with your body position and have fun.

Forgot to mention, when you go to your welding supply get some cone dipping paste in a jar and spatter spray.
 
That kit didnt come with the gas gauge and hook ups.If your going to jump into gas check tractor supply company.They have 110v welders with the gauges,it may be cheaper to buy a complete unit than to add the gas setup to that one.
But don't let anybody spend your money for you get what you want to don't worry about it.

FYI its "spatter" not splatter.
 
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