headers

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needsaresto

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So I know this is a dead horse but...

After reading several threads regarding A bodies and the fitment of headers,it seems to me that there is only one real choice available to us as A body owners.And that is TTI or CPPA(same thing).Now the fact that there is only one really good header that fits is probably why they cost $700 and even so not everyone is a fan of tti's.Well,you cant please everyone.

So heres what I want to know.

Has anyone tried making thier own headers and what results did you get?
 
yep and there great oh better than great .....ok you not going to beleve it but mine run foward and out thru the front part of the iner finder well and down right in front of the the tire but in order to pass NHRA teck it has a collector that goes under and around the tire putting the exhast allmost were it goes just foward some ,,,,,,no before you knok them you have to run them, advantiges,,,,,,,,,,NO HEAT ON STARTER,,,,,,,,NO DRAG LINK TO GO THRU THEM ,,,,,,,,,,AND CAN REMOVE THEM IN MIN ABOUT 15 MIN AND OFF I ALSO PORTED THEM INSIDE WERE WELDS WERE I SMOTHED THEM OUT MY 340 RUNS GOOD RAN 12:20 LAST YEAR AND SHOOTING FOR TENS THIS YEAR AT MOPAR NATS IF YOUED LIKE PICKTS ,,,,,,E-MAIL ME AT lonbishop@netzero.net
 
sure i have tried it. its not a problem to make a set of headers but it takes lots and lots of time, and it gets just as expensive if you are going to do it right with thick quality flanges and its real easy for it to become expensive if you just do a few mistakes that makes for alot of scrap pipes:( but its always nice to try:)
i have TTI headers now and they fit real nice and where worht the price to me, but its everyones choise where they wnat to put the money and time
 
The only thing I've found wrong with TTI headers other than cost is replacing the starter, What a pain!!! Of course it may be easier if the Demon had a small block.
 
The only thing I've found wrong with TTI headers other than cost is replacing the starter, What a pain!!! Of course it may be easier if the Demon had a small block.

on the smallblock tti headers it took some thinking, if i remember it right i had to put the starter in behind the headerstubes "uppside down and backwards" then twist it around behind the headertubes, and that was with a ministarter but i got it in there without no dissasembly ;)
 
We run a 440 + .040 in a '71 Demon, edelbrock heads, tti headers, & a Mopar mini starter. You have to remove left motor mount, loosen right motor mount, unbolt left side header, unbolt starter, lift engine about 3? inches, remove header & starter pretty much together, what a pain but worth it, as the Demon runs mid to low 10s in the 1/4 @ 130+.
 
I think Doug's Headers don't hang down like Hookers and the cheaper copy brands.

May be a less expensive alternative to the $$$ TTi's. I have TTi's on my 4 speed dart and z bar issues I had are pretty much legendary for a $700 supposedly well designed POS header. Am I bitter... no!!!

I wouldn't buy another set of TTi headers unless they were $100 for the number of hours it took to get my clutch stuff figures out. And the worthless tech assistance at tti... LOSERS! :thebirdm: My mom was a bigger help and she's a 70 yo disabled woman.

Overpriced, no two ways around that. :bootysha:
 
I bought TTi's for my 68' Dart 6.1 hemi and NOTHING FITS!!!!!!!!!

Customer service sux too!


I am having to cut up $700 headers to make them fit!!! Not good!!!!!!
 
I bought TTi's for my 68' Dart 6.1 hemi and NOTHING FITS!!!!!!!!!

Customer service sux too!


I am having to cut up $700 headers to make them fit!!! Not good!!!!!!

Thats too bad.At least if your cutting up a cheap header it doesnt hurt too bad!
 
Mad dog headers makes a set of headers for B motor A bodies. Have heard good and bad about them, about the same as tti. Check them out , they're in southern michigan. If memory serves me well about $500 a set and supposedly easy install.
 
I have dougs on my 66 and they are great headers. Very minor problems with them and the ground clearance is good. I wish they were 1-3/4 tubes, however.
 
I have ceramic coated Hooker competion (1 5/8" tube) on the dart and they work well.

I had the black painted ones on my 67 baracuda on the street for a while and the low clearance and starter installation was a real pain.

I now run a MP mini starter on the Dart and the installation is very easy. As far aground clearance goes I use the car for friday night drag racing and have had no problems.

Bob
 
I have Hedman's on the 360 in my 68 Barracuda, they have 1 5/8" tubes. You couldn't ask for a better fitting header. They clear everything without dinging any tubes, I have used the same headers with manual and now power steering. You can swap a full size starter in about 30 minutes (need to disconnect the drivers side inner tie rod from the center link) or a mini starter in about 15 minutes with out touching the headers.

The center link does go through the headers but in almost 20K miles I have never hit one on anything while driving on the road (I have a large lip going into the garage and scrapped one once). I would like thicker flanges but it's not an issue if you are careful tightening them and have not had any leaks. Plus the ball socket arrangement on the collector is superior to any conventional flange. There is also no clearance issues with the clutch z-bar and linkage.

You do need to use small hex header bolts (nice hardened ones come with the headers that have a 3/8" hex). Spark plug clearance is tight on cylinders 5 & 7 but if you swap to the small 5/8" hex plug used on the magnum engines it's a non issue. Likewise, the best solution for plug wires for 5 & 7 is to use 90 degree boots and route the wire under the header tube.

For $150 uncoated and $300 coated they are the best value in a header for a SB A-body out there.
 
I've got tti's on my '70 smallblock duster,they went in without any issues,and i've had to do trans work on it a couple of times had the starter out in no time at all,i 've used quite a few brands over the years and nothing compares to tti's..
 
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