Need clutch suggestions- 340/4-speed, Street/Strip

-

73SwingerBuild

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2010
Messages
1,004
Reaction score
43
Location
Rhode Island
Well, I'm getting ready to put the 340/4-speed in the Swinger. I'm looking for a good street/strip clutch disc, 10.5" in size. The flywheel and diaphragm pressure plate are fine. I just need a new disc. Motor is a 340, hopped up to ~350-400HP (no real #'s yet). I'll be running a hydraulic pull-style clutch set-up.
Any opinions would be much appreciated.
Thanks.

-Mike
 
Great minds think alike. I actually almost bought a mcleod last night, but I'm not 100% sure on what level to buy. I'm anxious to see if anybody on here has any particular model in mind that would work really well for my setup.
 
I've always ran centerforce dual friction on all My big blocks and they work great...and I only run the track a few times
 
I have a centerforce dual friction that came with the transmission, but I figured it would be best to replace it while the drivetrain is on the ground.
 
Ordered a Centerforce Dual Friction 10.4" last night. It should be the same as the one that was in the car (fingers crossed it worked well for the last owner lol).

Thanks guys.
 
I'd go with a mcleod disc, heard great things about them and that's what I'll be putting behind mine.

In doing some research, I agree that McLeod gets great reviews. I already had the Centerforce pressure plate though, so I figured I should stick with a Centerforce clutch disc.
 
I have heard that the Centerforce dual frictions ones can be tough for street driving and more for the strip, but that may depend on how the person likes the feel of it. I went with a Centerfore II kit on my 340 and I love it! It shifts nice, smooth and easy like my 98 Neon, I also beat on it hard and it sees track duty, works perfect.
 
Well, I'm also going to run a hydraulic clutch pedal setup, so that should smooth out any roughness typically asscoiated with the linkage. And I read a few reviews that raved about how smooth these DF clutches were for a performance clutch. I guess I'll just have to drive it and see!
 
There was a tech article in Mopar Muscle Magazine a while back with mods for the push rod on the clutch pedal under the dash for A-bodies. It is supposed to help with shifting at higher rpms. If I can find it I will post a link. I did the mods to my Duster and it seemed to help the shifting. I have a Centerforce dual friction clutch behind a 360 and love it. I beat my car hard (reverse to second) and so far it has held up and never slipped. A buddy of mine has the same clutch in his 68 GTX behind a built 440 and he drives it like I drive my Duster without any issues also.
 
I've seen that article (best magazine out there, in my opinion). It won't matter much for my application since I'll be running the hydraulic setup, but its worth posting the link here since im sure for members keeping their z bars. I'm anxious to see how the hydraulic setup works.
 
If you are just looking for a very high quality standard clutch, I recommend LUK. That's all we use. They can take some serious abuse for an OEM replacement.
 
I wanted to run a dual friction disc as that is what the pressure plate was designed with (i believe they come as a kit). I'm fairly certain that I could have replaced it with a stock-style unit like the one you suggested, but I wasn't 100% so I ordered a new dual friction off amazon. It came to just shy of $170 shipped and I know it will work with the other parts.

Thanks for the suggestions though. I'll keep that in mind on other builds.
 
have you tried out your new centerforce clutch yet? im shopping for a clutch and thats what i was thinking of going with. i too am going with a hydraulic set up.
 
My master cylinder was too small (clutch wont release) but i ordered a new one which will hopefully remedy that issue.
I will keep you posted.
 
I'd stay away from the centerforce if you are planning on using slicks at all. I toasted one in a big hurry and it was before my Duster was even launching better like it does now. I am at stock weight with a 340 putting out 425+hp at the crank. I have a McLeod dual disc B&B now and so far I'm loving it(though my 8.75 rears didn't, now have a Dana 60):burnout:
 
I'd stay away from the centerforce if you are planning on using slicks at all. I toasted one in a big hurry and it was before my Duster was even launching better like it does now. I am at stock weight with a 340 putting out 425+hp at the crank. I have a McLeod dual disc B&B now and so far I'm loving it(though my 8.75 rears didn't, now have a Dana 60):burnout:

My car will mostly be driven on the street, and I'm estimating my 340 to only have about 375HP at the crank. Maybe a little more. I only have an 8-1/4" rear, so I'm sure if I tried to launch the car, the clutch would be the least of my issues lol.

If I do decide to add mini-tubs and a better rear with wider tires, then a new clutch would definitely be in order.
 
If you are just looking for a very high quality standard clutch, I recommend LUK. That's all we use. They can take some serious abuse for an OEM replacement.
This is old an all but what’s the most hp you’ve ran behind an luk clutch I also run that clutch. Isent it just under 10.5? Don’t recall
 
-
Back
Top