Brake drums rusted to spindle?

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JefftheComputerMan

JefftheComputerMan

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ok i finally got the drums off the front after removing the entire spindle on drivers side. Pass side did not require this...which is correct? Are the bolts supposed to stay on the drum or not ( See pics)

At this junction I have a better question, Can I replace the drum and (whatever thats called that has the bolts on it) with a 5X4.5" pattern to get me away from the 5X4 that is original?
 

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Typically the drums stay on the hub as your driver's side is.... The hub is usually pressed into the drum. I'd have to think the passenger side came off like it did because some one previously had replaced that drum.....
 
Looks and sounds like the perfect time for a disc brake upgrade!
 
Yeah was looking at scarebirds conversion... anyone seen or done this one? here is email txt from them
www.scarebird.com


Mopar “A” body 1965-72 10”, 1960-72 9” Front Disc brake conversion instructions​

1. Crack front wheel nuts loose, chock up rear wheels. Jack up front end of car, support outer control arms with jackstands. Remove front wheels, drum/hub assembly. Put a few drops of penetrant oil on brakeline nuts where they screw into rubber lines.
2. Take drum/hub assembly and remove studs. Best ways to do this is with a swedge cutter and press, or take a center punch the head from the inside. Then pilot drill about ½” deep, then drill off head with 5/8” diameter bit. Clean off wheel surface and register with wire wheel or beadblaster. Replace studs with ¼” longer or more studs, such as NAPA #641-1563 (Dorman 610-156) (10”) or #641-1560 (9”)
3. Disconnect brake flexible line at frame by unscrewing hardline nut with flare wrench, then removing clip. Undo and remove drum retaining bolts. Remove drum backing plate, hose and all drum hardware in one assembly. Clean off spindle assembly well.
4. Place adapter plate over spindle with caliper bolt retaining nut welds facing inward for the Ten’s, outward for the Nines and caliper forward of the axle. Make sure no dirt is lodged between spindle and plate. Note placement of the bolts for the Ten’s: rearward bolt uses a supplied jam nut, while the forward bolt is reversed. A drop of Locktite is recommended on the jam nut.
5. Drill out wheel stud holes with pattern supplied. Cut out pattern with scissors, then spray with light oil or WD-40 and lay on rotor. Lightly punch for holes, then remove and punch harder. Drill out holes ½” diameter. Verify that rotor lays flat against hub by fitting rotor backwards onto hub. If the stud knurls interfere with rotor, countersink stud holes in rotor to clear knurls. Open pilot hole of rotor in lathe to just fit outside of centering ring.
6. Clean and repack wheel bearings. Install new seal. Assemble hub onto spindle, tighten outer nut to spec, then secure with keeper, new cotter pin and dustcap. Install center ring on hub.
7. Place rotor onto hub, and run two or three lugnuts down finger tight to retain rotor. Wipe down rotor with alcohol, lacquer thinner or other cleaner. Wash hands! Rotor must be squeaky clean.
8. Test fit caliper onto bracket. Note where casting lug interferes with spindle – remove this lug with hacksaw, cutoff wheel or grinder. If using the last two methods, make sure you do not heat up caliper too much and melt the seals. If fitting into stock drum rims, you will need to carefully grind and round off the outer edge of the calipers also. Lubricate caliper contact point of brackets. Slide assembly into caliper bracket. Make sure bleed screw faces upward- if not, reverse sides. We recommend buying loaded calipers. Tighten caliper bolts to 35 foot-pounds. Check fitment and rotate rotor to check clearance. Install hose with new copper crush washers.
9. Master cylinder and proportioning valve specs are quite varied. I would recommend 1973-75 Power Dart or similar disc master cylinder for best performance match available in both power and manual flavors. Plumb in an adjustable proportioning valve in the line going to the rear cylinders, or use a disc proportioning valve
10. Bench bleed disc master cylinder. Mount MC on car, then gravity bleed entire system first to eliminate most of the air, then pump bleed and test, otherwise your distribution block may jam from a pressure imbalance.
11. Replace wheels, install lug nuts, lower car and torque nuts to spec. Test drive carefully- no hard stops, a series of smooth stops will help bed in the pads properly.
Part Application NAPA Wagner Raybestos

Rotor 1991-94 Toyota Previa front rotor w/ rear drum option
48-86174 BD125058 96174
Caliper, LH 1990 Chevy Celebrity 242-2066 L107084 RC4234
Caliper, RH 1990 Chevy Celebrity 242-2067 L107085 RC4233
Brake Hose 1979-82 Eldorado front 36959/36960 F98914/98914 BH36959/3696
Brake pads 1990 Chevy Celebrity AE7136M MX215

*Verify fit and length before buying Scarebird Classic Brakes LLC 22 July 22, 2009 Version D

Scarebird Classic Brakes LLC warrantees our product for 90 days after purchase against manufacturing defects. Scarebird Classic Brakes LLC is not responsible and held harmless for errors/damage/injury due to faulty installation or use of non-specified/inferior components or adaptation to non-OEM applications. If you do no agree to this, please send components back unused for refund. Scarebird Classic Brakes LLC reserves the right to change/delete components/applications without notice. Please do not hesitate to email us for latest specifications or technical inquiries. Contact: sales@scarebird.com Thank you.

 

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jeff , search swedge on this site. that should answer your drum stuck to the hub. as for your swap to 4.5 bolt circle supposedly amc gremlins use the same bearings so it might be possible. Lawrence
 
But the last part of the question remains...
Can I swap the 9" drum out to a 5X4.5" pattern?
Probably no, (it would be way to damn easy)
 
Got an estimated year on that gremlin? Boy do I hate the thought of adding any more gremilns to this machine :grin:
 
The factory original drums were drum and hub assemblies the studs and drum were swaged together to remove you must cut the studs off and grind them flush with the drum then drill a hole into the center of the stud from the wheel side about 1/4 deep (not all the way through) the drill bit size about 3/4 the diameter of the stud. This will allowed the swage to collapse as it is pushed through the hub. Then drive them out and press in new ones. Now the drum will slide on and off like the other side. Failure to follow these instructions will result in enlarging the holes in the hub and it being junk.

Brian
 
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