'05 9.25 rear rebuildable?

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'68-340-S

'68-340-S

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Hi everyone,
It's been a while since I've been on here (had a lot going on). On my '05 Ram I blew up the 9.25 rear. It's locked up (but will move in reverse... don't know now far, I really didn't want to do any more damage). When I crawled under the truck the pinion is just laying in the rear end and can be "floped" around like it's not touching anything. I'm planing on poping the cover off to remove any chunks that are keeping me from moving it further up my drivway.
From what I've been reading this is somewhat common. A used replacment is salty so I was thinking about just rebuilding it and useing stronger aftermarket parts. I've never dove into a rear end rebuild. What should I be looking for in my old housing as far as if it's rebuildable? Should I replace the axles too?... New ones aren't that expensive. I want to do it right so I don't have to worry about it again.
Thanks,
 
'68-340-S said:
Hi everyone,
It's been a while since I've been on here (had a lot going on). On my '05 Ram I blew up the 9.25 rear. It's locked up (but will move in reverse... don't know now far, I really didn't want to do any more damage). When I crawled under the truck the pinion is just laying in the rear end and can be "floped" around like it's not touching anything. I'm planing on poping the cover off to remove any chunks that are keeping me from moving it further up my drivway.
From what I've been reading this is somewhat common. A used replacment is salty so I was thinking about just rebuilding it and useing stronger aftermarket parts. I've never dove into a rear end rebuild. What should I be looking for in my old housing as far as if it's rebuildable? Should I replace the axles too?... New ones aren't that expensive. I want to do it right so I don't have to worry about it again.
Thanks,
Click to expand...

Can't really give you much advice on rebuilding it, but you should be able to get one from a scrap yard pretty cheap with low miles.

You should be able to put it in Neutral and push it up the driveway, or pull the driveshaft, put it in 4x4 (unless it's 2wd) and drive it up to where you need it.
 
I found one with almost 60K for $1,500... lowest I've found is just over 1k. At that point it seems like a better idea to just rebuild. The rear is locked solid going forward. In 4wd it will pull the rear end and drag the rear tires.
 
'68-340-S said:
I found one with almost 60K for $1,500... lowest I've found is just over 1k. At that point it seems like a better idea to just rebuild. The rear is locked solid going forward. In 4wd it will pull the rear end and drag the rear tires.
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:shock::shock::shock::shock::shock:

That's insane....

We have a scrap yard called LKQ (just a pick and pull) where a truck axle assembly is $90 + $30 core. Too bad you didn't have one near you, my local one has over 1500 vehicles and I have 3 others I can go to within 20 miles.

Actually, you're not that far from Kalamazoo's LKQ and then we have another near Grand Rapids. Might be worth your time to drive up this way. I'll take a look when I go, should be going sometime this week. If they have one, I'll let you know.
 
Lol you ignored the noise and kept driving it and driving it and driving it and the nut continued to back off and now the pinion fell in and instead of seeing what was making that new noise and carefully tightening it, now you need gears and bearings.....

In reverses the ring pushes the pinion up and into the housing, when you PUSH it forward the ring grabs the pinion and pulls it in locking it up....

start the truck and carefully drive it forward and when stopping do not let it get slack, keep power to the pinion...

OR remove the shaft and the nut should be behind the flange. . .




When your vehicle starts making a noise, look and see whats happening it didn't start making a noise just because it wanted to
 
ok i have a 9.25 im 96 ram i have a buddy that is a mopar mech when i did mine i need to buy the outer bearing tool it was 90 bucks but a pretty straight build wish i had pics for you .
 
Just see a shop and get new gears and have it redone, unless you get lucky and didn't wreck the gears, but i kinda doubt it
 
Supershafts, It didn't make any noise until it broke... I didn't get any warning. The pinion nut doesn't look like it's backed off at all... when I "flop" the driveshaft around by hand the pinion moves everywhere the yoke does, no slop between the two. I'm not taking it to a shop. This will be an in driveway repair/replacement.
My question is about the housing, and any other parts that I should consider replacing. Would it be better to replace the whole rear end or just rebuild the one I have? If I'm going to rebuild the one I have what do I need to check to be certain my housing is ok?
 
My opinion is to tear into it and see what is damaged. if its just the rotating assembly and gears then hit the upull-it yards and grab the rotating assembly and gears as there are many many many 9.25's in the yards now as they were in so many different mopars from 73 up, cars and trucks. If the housing is damaged well the you know that your going to replace the whole axle.

ps only one specialized tool is needed for the removal of the rotating assembly and that is to get at the adjusters... I made my own tool and will go take some pix right now for you so you know what I'm talking about... post em in a couple minutes here
 
Hope this helps!
 

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Thanks Kernal,
It's been killing me to not know what's going on in side my diff. I've been sick and not able to crawl under it long enough to pull the cover. I hope it's as simple as ring/pinion, bearings / seals and not everything.
 
I rebuilt a 9.25 axle and installed it in my '71 Duster. It's super easy to work on.
 
The sure grips are quite easy to find too, they are clutch type and rebuildable too.

The rotating assembly when you pull the cover looks like an open but if you look closely behind the spiders the shaft and Cclips are through, you can see the clutch edges.

Just something to think about, after pulling the crosspin and removing the Cclips and shafts, put the cross pin back in so that the spiders wont rotate, fall out along with all the cluchpacks all over the driveway or ground if your pulling at a Upull-it.

I'll take a bunch of pictures the next time I'm at the Upull-it as I'm looking for a suregrip center and 3.55 gears... I seen one a couple weeks ago but I had hurt my back that weekend and havent been back yet. The demand for them isnt that great in my area so I'm sure it will be there next weekend.
 
srduster340 said:
I rebuilt a 9.25 axle and installed it in my '71 Duster. It's super easy to work on.
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What did you get the 9.25 out of that it will fit under the Duster? I didnt think any were short enough to fit?

I have a factory 9.25 under the 74 Charger and was looking into a Cclip eliminator kit for it but had no luck. Would love to swap it out (along with the ISO crap) for an 8.75 but the correct lenth ones are even more scarce than Abody ones! ...well here anyway.
 
Somewhere i heard that an old torsion bar will work for an adjuster that its the same hex.Dont know how true this is but if you have one its worth a try.
 
'68-340-S said:
Supershafts, It didn't make any noise until it broke... I didn't get any warning. The pinion nut doesn't look like it's backed off at all... when I "flop" the driveshaft around by hand the pinion moves everywhere the yoke does, no slop between the two. I'm not taking it to a shop. This will be an in driveway repair/replacement.
My question is about the housing, and any other parts that I should consider replacing. Would it be better to replace the whole rear end or just rebuild the one I have? If I'm going to rebuild the one I have what do I need to check to be certain my housing is ok?
Click to expand...


Something had to make noise, even if the bearing failed or exploded and the nut didn't back off it made noise before just locking up.
Has anyone else had there hands in that rear?

Take the driveshaft off and see whats going on, at this point how can you be certain the nut didn't back off, whether the main pin bearing failed or the nut backed off grabbing the shaft will have the same effect and it will move up and down and in and out, remove the shaft and then take the cover off.

On the internet there is no way i or anyone else can tell you what exactly you may need, i couldn't tell you what you need until you got to me to see it and this is something i do all the time.
 
daredevil said:
Somewhere i heard that an old torsion bar will work for an adjuster that its the same hex.Dont know how true this is but if you have one its worth a try.
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Now I'm not saying it wont work and I dont have a torsion bar sitting around right now but I do have an anchor so I measured because they look very close.... but I think the torsion bar may just spin unless it can be cocked enough to catch or if the bar is not ever going to be used again by running a weld bead along the edges may work
 

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As promised... however forgot my camera when I went to the u-pull-it.

Here are pics of the 9.25 ring, pinion and track-loc rotating assembly

The yoke is the large 7290 (29 spline) which I confirmed is interchangeable with the smaller 7260 from a 489 8.75 (29 spline)

The ring and pinion are 3.55 gears. The oil was super clean and the bearing are smooth and looked perfect. Before removing the axles I tried spinning the wheels seprately but couldn't, I know that doesnt mean thier good but sure does mean thier not shot! lol
Once out I did make sure the retention clips for the clutches were there and in tact.

So I took everything home for under $50

So here you can see where the clutch packs are on these one piece units.
 

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Supershafts said:
You checked the backlash measurement before pulling it apart so you can reset it. . . . ..
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I actually wasnt able to as I misplaced my magnetic base... I think my gf kids snagged it and left it somewhere :banghead:

I have resetup used gears before without having to much gear wine before so I'll be crossing my fingers with this set too. :prayer:
 
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