Which Shocks For Handling??

Don't get caught up in the bigger is better idiom when it comes to choosing suspension components.

Sure it would be nice to have double adjustable, 200 buck a corner, shocks on the car, but as long as you don't go overboard with the spring/stabilizer bar rates, an everyday shock like the KYBs will do you just fine for spirited street driving. And if you think the KYBs will give you a choppy ride (when they're new, they mellow out a little with a few miles on them), just wait until you put on high rate torsion bars combined with brick bat sized stabilizer bar(s).

The important thing to remember is balance (not to mention ride quality in a street driven car as opposed to a race car, trailer or garage queen). What you are really looking for in a car you're living in everyday is something that will allow the tires work in the corners without laying over, and at the same time prevent one end of the car from washing out before the other. Too stiff a suspension (applies to either end) forces the tires to hop over the bumps and anytime a tire is unloaded or not in contact with the pavement it's not contributing to the job of keeping the car under control.

Especially if you go with 60 series tires on 15" wheels or 55 series on 16s(to get away from that "rubber band" look), you might want to rethink the torsion bar and stabilizer bar rates. My guess is a set of KYBs coupled to something in the range of the Mopar Performance .920 torsion bars and 1 3/16" to 1 1/4" front stabilizer bar, is going to give you an acceptable ride and reasonably good handling. Rereading your first post I'd say your torsion bar and front stabilizer bar sizes are right on the money, will work just fine with a set of KYBs, and depending on the existing rear spring rate, the rear bar might not even be needed, but adding a body mounted 3/4" rear bar anytime after the fact is easy if it's warranted.

Food for thought: the Mopar rear spring doesn't just hold the rear of the car up. It is a far more sophisticated piece than most want to believe, and is a key part of a very well thought out rear suspension. It was designed to be run with the front segment parallel to the ground when the car is at ride height. If the rear springs you are running are arched downward with the front of the car at the height you desire, raising the front spring hanger will only take you farther from the designed in parameters. The real solution is to have the spring dearched to get that front segment level with the weight of your car on it.

Remember too, these cars generally need more caster than they were designed with and anytime the front of the car is lower than the rear, you are giving up a little bit of the caster available to you. If you do decide your car needs more caster, upper offset Moog bushings are maybe not as desirable as tubular upper arms for adding in additional caster, but they are a fraction of the cost.