Your Opinions Please

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soul60s

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Hi All,

I am sitting here viewing online videos on body work and painting. I have my Eastwood Catalog here and there are so many choices. What do you all recommend for:

body filler, brand, type?
filler or solder?
to pull dents, drill or weld studs?
type of primer?
what to look for with hammers and dollies?
chemicals and mechanical or sandblasting?
Rust converter?
Rust dissolver?
Rust sealers?
What size sandblasting machine? Any tips?
What brand of paint?
What about adding pearl or flakes?
What tools are a must have for sanding?

I know this is a long list but I really could use professional advice. You are all experienced in this so your opinions matter.

Joanne
 
OK I'll try to hit the hi lights here, If I miss some thing , Just Ask.

Body Filler - Anything from Evercoat, good stuff, the differences between the different names of filler is the consistency AKA thin for shallow dents n thicker material for larger fills. I forget which one is thick n which is thinner. Rule of thumb is 3/8" Max filler Depth. See Below.

Solder- I used it in certain places, bought the "Kit" from Eastwood including the video. Not too hard to do, If you ever sodered wires or sweated 2 copper pipes together, You'll pick it right up. It's all about keeping the solder not to hot not or too cold. And it will out last filler by a long shot. A trick is to fill your larger dents/voids with soder and the skim coat with filler. More $$$ than filler but you'll never have to redo it.

Dents - Get em Banged out ,Suction cup, Welded Studs, What ever.... To with in 1/4" of flat, use Solder or filler, Depending on depth. Again Less filler is better. A run of the mill body tool kit... Hammers n dollies, Is good enough to get most jobs done.

Chemicals and mechanical or sandblasting - OK I'm assuming your asking Surface prep. Theres a lot of ways to get it done. Here's my 101. For the underside and engine/ trans/rear, a Pressure washer of any kind is Great for the inital removal of years of road grime. Undercoat comes off easy with easy off oven cleaner and a putty knife. Then I sandblasted the under side using a Harbor Freight Suction feed gun, It worked, but I'd use a pressure feed next time. (Either way, it's the worst of the worst jobs.) I then, after all clean coated everything with 2 part Epoxy Primer ( See local body supply shop.) Use White, unless you know your final color it can be tinted close, Which will save you a bit of paint in long run.
For the Outside of the car, I prefer non toxic paint stripper and again the putty knife, Followed by 60-80 Grit Sandpaper on a dual action Sander. Epoxy Prime and do body work over it and or reprime any bare areas.

Rust Converter - I use whats called OSPHO ..again auto body supply place great for tight areas. Converts the rust to iron. put rust encapsulator over it.

Rust dissolver?- see above

Rust sealers?- See above - Epoxy 2 Part primer

What size sandblasting machine? Any tips? -- Electric 5-7 HP 220v with like 80-150 gal tank, is Sufficent to do it all. I use /have a 13 HP Gas fired compressor w/30 gal tank. Having DRY air is the biggest Problem while sandblasting or painting. Spend $ On getting dry air to your paint gun.

What brand of paint? - I used House of Kolors, Basecoat/clearcoat system. There's several different types of paint. Basically I'd think basecoat/ clearcoat is most popular these days.

What about adding pearl or flakes? Pick your basic colors for the car, it can allways be "adjusted" for what you want it to look like and what you . You can spend $50 on this part or Several K$

What tools are a must have for sanding? -- Check Eastwood for Sanding Boards and the corresponding sandpaper. I used the 16" flat board seemed long enough. 80 Grit to start...2nd worse job..LOL, You also need Lots of Muscle and endurance when your hand sanding it. My Muscles hated me for WEEKS while doing this.
Too know if your surface is flat, Get what's called guide coat (Basically a quick drying thin primer) in a spray can. Spray it lightly Sand... Anything that stays black is a low spot. Sand and/ or fill more, SAND, Sand, Sand. If you want to see if it's straight, just pour some water over it n you'll see the reflection, it should look like a mirror.

Ok long enough, Just Ask!
 
Thak you so much! Your opinion really matters. I have never even sanded wood! But, I do pick up on things that interest me very quickly and have an artistic side. Perfectionist too. So this project will be a first for everything. So far, I'm doing it right. No gouges in the metal from sanding. I'm using a DA.
So now I have an idea where to turn next.

Anyone else with tips, tricks and opinions on my original post???

Joanne
 
keep your sanders as flat to the surface as possible. Create rounded sanders from wood, rubber,etc to get into creases without destroying your fingers and hands(there will be a lot of places the machines cant get to...)
When sanding with the long board on large flat areas, crosshatch the sanding to "see" low spots, scratches, and ripples.
just a couple tips
 
go to your local auto body supply house. tell them what you are doing.
ask them what to use. they will set you up with all the needed bondo, body hammers,blocks, primer,etc
 
Thanks for those tips. I did see something online about using a chair rail from home depot and covering it with corkboard or a modified mouse pad. Then covered that with the paper. Seems like a lot of work considering trying to figure out how to make this all stick. They said something about the glue loosening up.

Know any places online who sell cheap? Eastwood is way too much.

Joanne
 
I was just looking online for a place in RI that sells auto body supplies. Can't believe how difficult that can be to find.

Joanne
 
You should look for some adult eduation classes, often ther eare some for auto mechanics and body work. You should get some good guidance and also some access to facilites and equipment.
 
I myself am wondering some of the same questions. In the spring onto the interior body of my 65 Dart. So I would be much abliged if you could swing a few of those opinions my way, once you have them of course. thank you very much. Nelson
 
We dont use (bondo) never ever! Use a lightweight body filler. Different fillers can make a difference in time, some sand faster than others and some clog up your sandpaper faster.
I like 3M light weight body filler part #05801 Sand that with 36 or 40 grit then switch to 80 grit. After this i apply a skim coat of evercoat metal glaze OEM - block this with 80 grit then 150 grit then 320 grit then prime with a 2k primer. If you dont sand your body work down to at least 320 grit you will probably see sand scratches after the car is painted because the primer will eventually shrink into those scratches.
I have been buying my supplies from autobodytoolmart.com
They are much cheaper than the auto parts stores and ship very fast.
 
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