TTI / 10.5 clutch

I've been looking at the Brewer's web site & found what I hope will be useful info.


CF106 CLUTCH FORK 1968-Up A-BODY SMALL BLOCK Details


Reconditioned A-body small block clutch fork, fits 1968-1976. 12 1/2" overall length (see CF702 clutch fork and FP484 fork pivot for converting 1963-66 A-body cars to 10.5" bellhousing). As available.


CF485 CLUTCH FORK 63-66 A-BODY Details


Reconditioned small block 1963-66 A-body clutch fork, used with BH081 & BH523 9.5" bellhousings) overall length 10 1/2". (see CF702 clutch fork and FP484 fork pivot for converting 1963-66 A-body cars to 10.5" bellhousing). As available.

CF702 CLUTCH FORK 1966-UP B/E/1967-69 A BIG BLOCK/1970-4 E/1971-4 B SM & BIG BLOCK Details


Reconditioned original clutch fork, fits 1966-up B/E-body/1967-69 A-body big block applications, and 1970-74 E-body/1971-74 B-body big & small blocks (also used with FP636 fork pivot when converting 1963-66 A-body cars to 10.5" bellhousing). 10 7/8" overall length. As available.

(some of these parts are also available new, I just didn't see the need to copy info twice.)

If I'm reading everything right it looks like the early A Bodies used a 10 1/2" fork

The Later A Bodies used a 12 1/2" fork.

There is also available a 10 7/8" fork.

I converted my 64 to a 10.5" clutch about 30 years ago so I'm going from memory & things I've seen posted on the internet. When I did it I used the bellhousing & fork from a later A body. I used a different Z bar (I just looked at what the dealer had & picked the closest one) & narrowed it to fit the car. I'm guessing I had to narrow it because the fork was longer. IIRC, the original Z bar had a funny step to the side on the bottom leg so the adjusting rod would line up correctly with the fork, but I'm not sure. The new one I used didn't have this step. I also cobbled together a (functional but really crappy looking) pivot ball setup to mount to the bellhousing.

It looks like you could use the 10.5" bellhousing along with the 10 7/8" fork & gain over 1 1/2" clearance at the end of the clutck fork. A different fork pivot & a different Z bar with shorter or longer arms might be necessary to keep the leverage ratios correct so the TO bearing travel would be the same. Have you looked into this? Since you have first hand knowledge of the clearance problem, you would be the best one to know whether the 1 1/2" would be enough to make this work. Let us know if there's a chance.