Need to upgrade 68 Cuda alternator to high amperage
Are you figurin' on doing any drag racing? Trunk mount battery means some attention to race rules. I'm not up on the details, but the battery must either be in an externally vented METAL box, or a plastic box with a metal firewall at the rear seat. You must have a disconnect which shuts all power, including killing the engine.
One way to do this is to use a 4 post (double pole) disconnect. You can use the auxiliary contacts to provide the ground on a "continuous duty" solenoid up front, being triggered by what used to be the dark blue "ignition run" wire. Then pull all your heavy 12V switched stuff off the solenoid, and you can use the "hot" stud on the solenoid, along with the factory starter relay, if you still use it, for other 12V take off points.
Make DAMN sure you have adequate wiring for this alternator. In no case use the factory bulkhead stuff.
I would use nothing SMALLER than a no 6 from the alternator to the battery junction
Did you get the A/C figure from classic, or are you guessing? That seems high, to me.
You have something against Delco? But yet you'll use a Denso??? Someone on here the other day was talking about using a Ford "3G" alternator which is internally regulated.
This is one way to do it, the alternator output ties into the start relay stud, or the "hot" stud on the added "continuous duty" solenoid
Are you figurin' on doing any drag racing? Trunk mount battery means some attention to race rules. I'm not up on the details, but the battery must either be in an externally vented METAL box, or a plastic box with a metal firewall at the rear seat. You must have a disconnect which shuts all power, including killing the engine.
One way to do this is to use a 4 post (double pole) disconnect. You can use the auxiliary contacts to provide the ground on a "continuous duty" solenoid up front, being triggered by what used to be the dark blue "ignition run" wire. Then pull all your heavy 12V switched stuff off the solenoid, and you can use the "hot" stud on the solenoid, along with the factory starter relay, if you still use it, for other 12V take off points.
Make DAMN sure you have adequate wiring for this alternator. In no case use the factory bulkhead stuff.
I would use nothing SMALLER than a no 6 from the alternator to the battery junction
Did you get the A/C figure from classic, or are you guessing? That seems high, to me.
You have something against Delco? But yet you'll use a Denso??? Someone on here the other day was talking about using a Ford "3G" alternator which is internally regulated.
This is one way to do it, the alternator output ties into the start relay stud, or the "hot" stud on the added "continuous duty" solenoid
