Engine & Trans removal

I've done this many times.

Yes, you can remove the engine and trans together, but it is much easier if you have one of the engine levelors where you can tilt the engine.


I prefer to remove the headers and starter before pulling to make more room to maneuver the engine. Also remove the alt, P/S assy from engine, fan and w/p pulley. You will need all the "wiggle" room you can with a 727. You will then have to deal with the trans mount and crossmember. Remove the two bolts for the trans mount to the trans through the clearance holes in the crossmember (5/8 socket on an extention), then as you are starting to lift the engine, remove the last of the four bolts for the trans crossmember to the frame (3/4" bolts & nut heads). As soon as you drop the trans crossmember, start to tilt the engine. Then pull the engine forward with your engine lift and keep tilting until you get to the radiator support. The crank pulley will be tight to the radiator support and you will have the trans almost to the top of the trans tunnel. Sometimes, you may have to tilt the engine sideways slightly to get the crank pulley to clear the radiator support while the trans it bottoming out on the top of the trans tunnel (removing the exhaust manifolds/headers makes this easier and keeps you from denting your header tubes). Then once you get the crank pulley past the radiator support and the trans tail clear of the trans tunnel, start to level the engine out and lift it clear. Once everything on the engine is disconnected and you hook up the engine hoist with a levelor, the engine can be pulled in 10 minutes or less (if you didn't forget to disconnect something - like the trans neutral safety switch wire) once you get the process down. The main thing is to remove the trans crossmember just as you left the engine off of the motor mounts, then start tilting.

I hope this helps.