edelbrock carburetor secondarys

I have been playing with the jets and metering rods on my edelbrock carburetor its a 600cfm manual choke afb performer. I'm trying to determine if its better to run bigger or smaller jets on the secondary side.
For example i have .092 jets on the primary side and .092 jets in the secondary side. Would i beneift jumping the secondary jets up to like .095's or .098's? Or would it be better to drop the secondarys down to .089's?
Just trying to figure out what works best keeping the jets the same all around or runnin richer jets in the secondarys or leaner jets in the secondarys. I live in pretty high elavation basically live in the mountains here in montana. My engine is the 300hp crate 360 magnum from mopar. I have my timing at 16 degrees initial and 34 total all in by 2800 rpm. I got hedman hedders coming into dual exhaust but the retard at the exhaust shop gave me 2 inch exhaust pipe instead of 2 1/4 wich is what i asked for and i already paid for it before seeing that it was 2 inch exhaust. But this engine is in my 91 four wheel drive short bed ram truck. I got the edelbrock rpm air gap dual plane intake and a 4 hole 1 inch phenolic carburetor spacer.
Anyways just hoping someone can tell me if its best to keep the jets the same or run the secondarys richer then the the primary side or leaner. Thanks.

.................. no 2 motors r the same, trial and error is where its at...find out what the primaries want...try different metering rods....what has happened so far whit ur playing around...kim..........

Do you know how to read spark plugs?
You could get a air fuel meter installed in the exhaust. Then it'll tell you the ratio on idle, cruise and wide open throttle.

Attached is an old AFB tuning guide from back in the day and the newer one from Edelbrock. Perhaps you'll find some useful info in them.

Thnaks guys, i'm expiencing a strange problem and i have 2 books on the edelbrock carburetor on is by larry sheppard aand the other is by dave emuanal. Instead of starting a new thread i thought i would explain whats going on in this thread.
When i fire up the engine and let it reach operating temp i can give it some throttle and when i hold the throttle steady at 2000 to 2500 rpm i get a surge but ony while the engine is in park or nuetral. When there is a load on the engine this surge is not present. Anyone have any idea as to what could be causing that? It is confusing me i thought maybe its ignition but i have a brand new mopar performance distributer and i set the mechanical advance at 18 degrees so i could run 16 degrees initial and 34 total and i changed my springs so that all my timing is in by 2800 rpm and it starts to come in around 1200 rpm.
My ignition module is a brand new and its a standard same with my ballast resistor, my coil is brand new as well and its a borg warner select. When the engine is running at an idle i am getting 7 to 7.5 volts at the coil 13.67 is what the battery has while running and on the run side of the ballast resistor i am getting 13.0 volts and on the coil side of the resistor i'm getting 7 to 7.5 volts.
I'm running out of idea's as to what this could be. My last two places to look would be fuel pressure and the float level. Would the float level being off cause this to happen? What struck me most odd about this is it only happens while in park or nuetral when i'm cruising down the highway or cruising around town there is no surge to it at all. But as soo as i put it in park and try to hold the gas steady t 2000 to 2500 rpm i get a surge and i can hear it thru the exhaust. This is my most recent problem i am trying to solve. Once i rev up past 2000 to 2500 rpm while in park or nuetral it smooths right out and runs nice and strong. But again while i'm driving it there is no surge what so ever. You guys ever sen anything like this before?

Start with the simple stuff and verify that your float levels are correct (per the guides I posted) and your fuel pressure is at 5.5 psi (and does not exceed 6 psi). You may then have to experiment with step-up springs, rods, jets to eliminate the surge in the no-load condition. Maybe the step-up springs in there now are causing it to fluctuate between rich and lean with the vacuum you're drawing at that particular rpm level and no load. Could boomerang back and forth as the rpms rise and fall which in turn affects vacuum levels which in turn affect step-up pistons in the carb. Just a guess.

According to Edelbrocks manual the secondarie jets should not be bigger then the primary jets.
To see if you need bigger secondaries you can clock the car between a certain rpm range and as long as the car gets quicker go with bigger jets.
Of course this should be done on a safe road.

Ede's are notorious for the floats to be out of wack from the factory, so take the top off and make sure the floats are set correct.

As far as jets go,without an AF gauge,or dyno,it can be difficult to get it nuts on.
And with today's fuel,reading the plugs has become more difficult.
So without the above, it comes down to timmed runs or seat of the pants.
Trial and air all the way.

Having said that,I usually go up 2 sizes on my secondary jets, on my Ede's.
Seems to like it on the top end.
When playing with the springs, I always seem to go back to the Orange spring. It always seems to work the best. Again trial and air.

You are also dealing with a 4x4 truck, so your setup will be different from a street car. Off idle torque when wheeling is what you need. That 600 out of the box stock should work great for what your doing. That's where I would start (factory box stock), with the floats adjusted.

As far as a surge, I would lean more towards a vacuum leak.