A Valiant BJ / Powerdyne BD-11

-
Brad426

Brad426

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 13, 2010
Messages
495
Reaction score
12
Location
Ottawa, Ontario Canada
Now I'm getting to the fun stuff. I've had enough scrapping and painting for now.....I started to install the BD-11 and had to do a bit of body work for clearance. So far so good. I'm trying to figue out how to feed filtered air to the blower. The K&N is their to keep the bugs out for now but, I may have to stick with this set up. The filter holder with the kit is too big to mount anyplace between the blower and firewall. So it looks like a ton of ducting is needed. My other option is to tap into the pax side snorkel on the hood...again it's getting complicated. Stand-by. :coffee2:
 

Attachments

  • DSC00006.jpg
    83.9 KB · Views: 798
  • DSC00007.jpg
    76.6 KB · Views: 889
  • DSC00008.jpg
    82.6 KB · Views: 702
  • DSC00009.jpg
    67.3 KB · Views: 649
  • DSC00012.jpg
    85.7 KB · Views: 677
  • DSC00005.jpg
    71.7 KB · Views: 698
  • DSC00004.jpg
    88.4 KB · Views: 689
I added a fine brass screen between the compressor discharge & intake. Just incase of FOD (forgien object damage). If the compressor internaly digest something or the compressor blade glue fails. This migh stope FOD from going into the engine.
 

Attachments

  • P5220012.JPG
    81.6 KB · Views: 639
  • P5210002.JPG
    73.7 KB · Views: 623
  • P5200012.JPG
    128.5 KB · Views: 580
very cool Brad426....you may have inspired me to fit up my BD11A to my 360.
what improvements have you made to the BD11 if any. i have fitted the 928 bearings, belt, impeller shaft, and had the drive cog lightened. had considered a Vortech but on reflection the powerdyne now owes me $$$ so may as well see what it will go like.

love the green.

cheers
 

Attachments

  • P1010392.jpg
    69.5 KB · Views: 594
  • P1010384.jpg
    109.1 KB · Views: 575
70wayfarer said:
very cool Brad426....you may have inspired me to fit up my BD11A to my 360.
what improvements have you made to the BD11 if any. i have fitted the 928 bearings, belt, impeller shaft, and had the drive cog lightened. had considered a Vortech but on reflection the powerdyne now owes me $$$ so may as well see what it will go like.

love the green.

cheers
Click to expand...

STOP! DO NOT RUN YOUR BD11 WITH 928 MOTORSPORTS parts!
You will distroy your engine & blower. Please do not use anything from 928. I will be happy to tell you why with photos, documents & the works. I have the evidance. Do you recall if the 928 bearing were stamped KBC. OMG! Buddy Karl is bad news.
 
yes the bearings were KBC. i was very surprised to have recieved $3 bearings packed with some magical grease. not the product i thought. the kevlar belt did not have any markings on it. i have contacted carl with no response to date. glad i never got the billet impeller from him then.

OK so who and where do i get the right bearings for my BD11A. these things should be fine with the right parts?

cheers
 
You will need to get that air filter into cooler air for sure! I read that you were thinking of leaving it where it was?
 
CUUDAK said:
You will need to get that air filter into cooler air for sure! I read that you were thinking of leaving it where it was?
Click to expand...

I agree but, for now I have this......:cheers:
 

Attachments

  • P5200010.JPG
    127.1 KB · Views: 550
  • P5200012.JPG
    128.5 KB · Views: 523
  • P5270029.JPG
    150.7 KB · Views: 515
More info on bearings

POWERDYNE BD11 IMPELLER SHAFT BEARINGS

Powerdyne Factory Installed (Factory New)

Manufacturer: SKF
P/N: 6202-2RSTNH/HC5C3WT (Highest quality)

6 = deep groove ball bearing
2 = width / height series
02 = bore size of 15mm
2RS(H) = two contact seals
TNH = Injection molded cage of glass fiber reinforced polyetheretherketone (PEEK), rolling element centered
HC5 = ceramic rolling elements
C3 = greater than normal clearance
WT = special grease fill for temperature range -40C to 160C
WT Grease fill for low as well as high temperatures (e.g. –40 to +160 °C). WT or a two-figure number following WT identifies the actual grease. An additional letter or letter/ figure combination as mentioned under “HT” identifies filling degrees other than standard.
Examples: WT or WTF1

Replacement Bearing SKF from KAMAN AEROSPACE (Acceptable Replacement)

Manufacturer: SKF
P/N: 6202-2RSH/C3GJN

6 = deep groove ball bearing
2 = width / height series
02 = bore size of 15mm
2RS(H) = two contact seals
C3 = greater than normal clearance
GJN = grease type
GJN Grease with a polyurea thickener of consistency 2 to the NLGI Scale for a temperature range –30 to +150 °C (normal fill grade)

928 Motorssports HP Bearing (Non-Special Application)

Korea Bearing Company (KBC)(now owned by FAG)
P/N: 6202Z

6 = deep groove ball bearing
2 = width / height series
02 = bore size of 15mm

Z= single or double shield

The KBC 6202Z cross references to a SKF Explorer bearing 6202-2Z (the Z or 2Z means double metal shields)
Limiting RPM is 22,000 rpm for a quality SKF bearing only.
Limiting Temperature range see diagram 1. At an average engine compartment temperature of 210 degree F
a SKF 6202-2Z bearing has a max. rpm of about 5,000 rpm.
 

Attachments

  • 6202 Bearings 1.jpg
    86.5 KB · Views: 557
CUUDAK said:
You will need to get that air filter into cooler air for sure! I read that you were thinking of leaving it where it was?
Click to expand...

Same thoughts. No Intercooler also. I really think the OP is going to need at least some Meth Injection to keep the IAT's cool enough and stay away from detonation. Boost does not get along with Hot IAT's, Detonation will follow.
 
Your right on that front. I have a water/alco. injection kit to install later. I want to try it this way first and see what it does. The EFI computer will record each run and show me any A/F, temp. spikes and EGT. I can fine tune after that or modify.
 
Brad426 said:
Your right on that front. I have a water/alco. injection kit to install later. I want to try it this way first and see what it does. The EFI computer will record each run and show me any A/F, temp. spikes and EGT. I can fine tune after that or modify.
Click to expand...

You should really think about putting the Meth kit on now. Detonation has "NO REMORSE" it will destroy your engine faster than your computer can react. I would hate to see you ruin your engine before you get a chance to use it. You have alot of $$ into your build.

I also see a carb, not EFI, am I missing something??

Here is a good read for you.....

http://www.alcoholinjectionsystems.com/
 
Mad Dart said:
You should really think about putting the Meth kit on now. Detonation has "NO REMORSE" it will destroy your engine faster than your computer can react. I would hate to see you ruin your engine before you get a chance to use it. You have alot of $$ into your build.

I
Click to expand...


That's some REALLY GOOD advice, I think. My system (Vortech V-1, S-trim, NO intercooler,) but with a Snowperformance Boost Cooler, is set to come on a 3-psi and sprays all the way to my max of 10, and I have had ZERO detonation problems running it that way on AV gas, both at the drag strip and, at the chassis dyno. I run pure meth in it, no water.

I can't see any good reason to tempt fate, and run it with NO intercooler and NO alky injection, only to add it later (the meth.) It's just too big a chance to take, with possibly disasterous ccircumstances, especially, since you're going to add it later, anyway.

The advantages of having it early-on, would seem to far outweigh any perceived disadvantages, to me.

Just my 2-cents...

"Detonation has no remorse..." I LOVE IT!!!:blob:
 
OK I'll hook it up. I could use your advice. If you look close that is not a carb. It is a Projection III EFI...

I have the W/A pump & nozzel but, have no clue as how to rig it up. Should the spray nozzel be on the intake side of the BD11 (compressor side) or output side? I've seen what water does to turbine compressor blades.......Thanks
 
Brad426 said:
OK I'll hook it up. I could use your advice. If you look close that is not a carb. It is a Projection III EFI...

I have the W/A pump & nozzel but, have no clue as how to rig it up. Should the spray nozzel be on the intake side of the BD11 (compressor side) or output side? I've seen what water does to turbine compressor blades.......Thanks
Click to expand...


I have heard testimonials both ways. I chose a location dowdstream of the compressor, but I didn't have any solid evidence that that was the "right" way to do it. It seems to do the job...

I ddin't want to put the compressor impeller in any kind of jeopardy, unnecessarily.

He's a pic...:wack:
 

Attachments

  • 100_3231-3.jpg
    182.7 KB · Views: 508
Thanks Bill. Nice set up. I have to lean the "after" the blower school of thought as well. Water is as hard as a rock at the compressor speeds. One less thing to come loose and eat the compressor. What do you use to trigger the pump?
 
Brad426 said:
OK I'll hook it up. I could use your advice. If you look close that is not a carb. It is a Projection III EFI...

I have the W/A pump & nozzel but, have no clue as how to rig it up. Should the spray nozzel be on the intake side of the BD11 (compressor side) or output side? I've seen what water does to turbine compressor blades.......Thanks
Click to expand...

Wow, first I seen of that product. Pretty cool! Gunna do some research on it.

As far as the nozzles you can put them before or after or both. On your system I would probably do both.

Here is a diagram for you... There is also information on the site about spraying on both sides of a centrifugal super charger.

http://www.alcoholinjectionsystems....-My-Water-Injection-Nozzles/article_info.html
 
Brad426 said:
Thanks Bill. Nice set up. I have to lean the "after" the blower school of thought as well. Water is as hard as a rock at the compressor speeds. One less thing to come loose and eat the compressor. What do you use to trigger the pump?
Click to expand...

The Snowperformance Boost Cooler kit include a "Hobbs" switch (I guess that's what you'd call it,) that is connected to intake manifold vacuum/boost with a small-diameter hose to monitor conditions. It has a small female Allen hex that can be used to adjust the onset of spray; your choice. I use 3 psi on my low-boost application. YMMV...

Hope this helps... O:)
 
With the PJIII you need to do one other thing if you plan to use methanol injection. Activate the E85 setting (brown wire) via the Hobbs switch you use for the methanol.

The problem is you are adding fuel (methanol) and the PJ will see that & pull fuel out of the injector cycles.

What you want is boost ENRICHMENT. By switching to the E85 settings you get the fuel curve offset under boost.

B.
 
bohica2xo said:
With the PJIII you need to do one other thing if you plan to use methanol injection. Activate the E85 setting (brown wire) via the Hobbs switch you use for the methanol.

The problem is you are adding fuel (methanol) and the PJ will see that & pull fuel out of the injector cycles.

What you want is boost ENRICHMENT. By switching to the E85 settings you get the fuel curve offset under boost.

B.
Click to expand...

That would seem to me, to be a REALLY good idea!!! Never thought of that...
 
bohica2xo said:
With the PJIII you need to do one other thing if you plan to use methanol injection. Activate the E85 setting (brown wire) via the Hobbs switch you use for the methanol.

The problem is you are adding fuel (methanol) and the PJ will see that & pull fuel out of the injector cycles.

What you want is boost ENRICHMENT. By switching to the E85 settings you get the fuel curve offset under boost.

B.
Click to expand...

When referring to a Meth Injection Kit I was referring to the Kit itself. You don't need to spray 100% Meth. Alot of guys just spray 100% Water or even a 50/50 Mix of Meth and Water. You will not get the Fuel explosion that most think you would. When injecting the "Spray" it is broken down in to a Misty Steam which cools off the intake charge & Cylinder Temps. This is what you are after, not using it for another Fuel Source.
 
Mad Dart said:
When referring to a Meth Injection Kit I was referring to the Kit itself. You don't need to spray 100% Meth. Alot of guys just spray 100% Water or even a 50/50 Mix of Meth and Water. You will not get the Fuel explosion that most think you would. When injecting the "Spray" it is broken down in to a Misty Steam which cools off the intake charge & Cylinder Temps. This is what you are after, not using it for another Fuel Source.
Click to expand...


I believe what you're saying here is true, but at the same time, I'm wondering if, due to the increased volatility of methanol vs. water, if the greater evaporative nature of the alcohol might not give additional cooling, when atomized. I have NO information to support this, I'm just asking. It seemed plausible to me...

What do you think????

Not running an intercooler has me wanting all the charge cooling I can get...
 
bohica2xo said:
With the PJIII you need to do one other thing if you plan to use methanol injection. Activate the E85 setting (brown wire) via the Hobbs switch you use for the methanol.

The problem is you are adding fuel (methanol) and the PJ will see that & pull fuel out of the injector cycles.

What you want is boost ENRICHMENT. By switching to the E85 settings you get the fuel curve offset under boost.

B.
Click to expand...
THANK YOU! I never though of that. Other than hooking up the brown wire to be hot when the boost switch is activated a 3 psi. Do I need to flip and swiched or adjustments in the Stage III programing. BTW. The wiring doagram in the PJIII instructions says the brown wire is for future use.......Did we time warp?
:prayer:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top