Raising shift points
I don't understand why you added a spring to your carb. Why not just take off the return spring and let the throttle pressure rod float. It will firm up the shifts and make them later, maybe to late though.
If anyone is interested how I set mine up, I can post a pic.
They make the adapter bracket, but it's not required to have that specific bracket.
I made my own with a 1/16 thick and 1/2 wide peice of aluminum and have the original two barrel pin through it for the throttle and throttle pressure to connect as originally intended.
The TP rod will not just "float" with out the return spring because there is also a spring in the TP valve in the valvebody, although it would hang back a little and only make a difference at very low speeds. (Only make a diff until the pin on the linkage caught up with the TP linkage)
The spring makes the TP lead the actuall linkage a little through the whole range of movement, therefore raising the shiftpoints and pressure across the board. (Not just at low, or just at high speeds)
I have mine adjusted to what is probably a little tight for most people.
As I suspect 73's is from the picture and his discription of the shifts, but that can be adjusted to anywhere you like it.
I get a good firm 1-2 shift at about 20-25 mph and a nice quick 2-3 shift at about 40 under normal driving.
If I'm on the gas, say going up an onramp to the freeway with a wide open throttle I get the 2-3 shift at about 70.
Like I said, a little late and firm for most I think.
There is another way to get the same result, and that would be to take some of the weight off of the governor valve so that it requires a faster output shaft speed to make the weighted valve move and therefor later shifts.
Unfortunatly, that cannot be undone nearly as easy as taking the spring back off the carb linkage.
I wanted something quick, simple, effective, adjustable and easily reversible.
