brake bleeding..WTF?

OK, so I converted my single pot to a dual disc/drum setup. straight forward setup, only 2 new lines used to feed the Prop valve from the M/C, all other lines are stock. Large reservoir for the front disk, smaller front reservoir for the drums, check. So I bench bleed the M/C so there are no bubbles, nice smooth action through the clear tubes. Install the full dripping M/C, slip new rubber chinga over old pushrod tit and get it seated (I think, how else would it seat if I can give it a full stroke to the floor?) and start using my mightyvac to draw fluid into pass caliper from the bleeder valve which IS on top. I finally (maybe 30 40 strokes at 1cc each time???) get no bubbles so I cap it and then do the driver side. Same deal, refill the 3/4 empty M/C and then figure that Im pretty good on the fronts. so i give it a stroke and its like nothing...straight to the floor? Wait: if the systems are seperate, I should be getting a hard pedal even with nothing in the rear lines (which is still empty) do I have to pump bleed them, (hard with no help) or can the one man brake bleeder work (hose into a 1/4 full bottle) still hard with no eyes on the passenger line? Im wondering if the piston is not getting back all the way to uncover the port inside the M/C? Maybe because the pushrod is too long or is not seated? Anyone know offhand if a 65 manual pushrod will work with a 67 manual M/C? maybe too long? M/C is good, I got a hard pedal on the bench with the plug bleeders...and no leaks anywhere. Baffled....