LJS30
Well-Known Member
What are your opinions on the effectiveness of aluminum core/plastic tank radiators versus the old school copper tank design? I need a radiator for a non-Mopar vehicle but am hesitant to go with the plastic tank design.
Copper Tank vs. Plastic Tank
- Thread starter LJS30
- Start date
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Oklacarcollecto
Life is an experiment
Plastic tanks tend to crack but the aluminum cools better. Old school doesn't cool as well. I will always go copper/brass over aluminum/plastic. All aluminum would be the way to go if possible because it is the best of both worlds. Sometimes you have to buy what is available because you only have one choice.
'86 Ranger. Plastic tank 1 row radiator. 312,000 miles. went to the crusher with the original radiator & a rod hanging out of the block.
'93 F150 Plastic tank 2 row radiator. 205,000 miles right now. Original radiator, and it runs 200 on a 195 thermostat - at 115f ambients here in Las Vegas.
'98 Grand Cherokee Plastic tank 2 row radiator... You get the idea.
I have never had a plastic tank fail. I have seen a poorly maintained cooling system eat some pin holes in an aluminum core.
If the OEM replacement for your vehicle is a plastic tank radiator, use it. The aluminum transfers heat better. Pay attention to the tank mounts. If the rubber that supports the tanks is degraded or distorted - replace it.
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'93 F150 Plastic tank 2 row radiator. 205,000 miles right now. Original radiator, and it runs 200 on a 195 thermostat - at 115f ambients here in Las Vegas.
'98 Grand Cherokee Plastic tank 2 row radiator... You get the idea.
I have never had a plastic tank fail. I have seen a poorly maintained cooling system eat some pin holes in an aluminum core.
If the OEM replacement for your vehicle is a plastic tank radiator, use it. The aluminum transfers heat better. Pay attention to the tank mounts. If the rubber that supports the tanks is degraded or distorted - replace it.
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Just me but I prefer a larger core in the stock brass tanks. Of course, I like the old-school look of polished brass tanks.
Oklacarcollecto
Life is an experiment
Me too. Working for a salvage we sold 100 plastic tank radiators to one brass but there was more plastic tank radiators on the road by then too but no where near a 100 to 1. If the brass one isn't rotted out then it can be repaired. If brass is rotted out then it can be re-cored. Plastic broke then it is a trip to Auto Zone or the type store and buy a new one or buy a used one at a salvage. The plastic tanks is why the parts stores started selling them because they never sold stock brass ones. Plastic is great until it fails then you replace it.
Cliff's son is dealing with a cracked tank right now on a Jeep he jut drove to Oklahoma from North Carolina.
383Duster
Well-Known Member
Plastic tanks can last a long time but I have seen them crack.....
Rice Nuker
Let the Coal Roll!
What rad are you looking at? Could you post a link?
I thought I saw a plastic / aluminum one on rock auto for a Volare a while back.
I agree that it seems the plastic / aluminum ones cool great. All my new-ish cars have the factory ones (of course) and never get hot at all, no way. Seems like they are pretty light weight too.
I never seen one crack or fail in any way on my vehicles. But, good point already made, they probably wont last 30 years like the copper / brass ones do.
I thought I saw a plastic / aluminum one on rock auto for a Volare a while back.
I agree that it seems the plastic / aluminum ones cool great. All my new-ish cars have the factory ones (of course) and never get hot at all, no way. Seems like they are pretty light weight too.
I never seen one crack or fail in any way on my vehicles. But, good point already made, they probably wont last 30 years like the copper / brass ones do.
LJS30
Well-Known Member
I'm looking for a four row for a 69 Chevy Pickup. The radiator I have now is a Harrison and is leaking from the core. Can it be repaired? I've been told in the past a leaky tank is no problem but a core means the radiator is done.
Yes,recore it.Harrison had good quality tanks.
It can be re-cored, no worries.
Only thing might be that it could cost more money to re-core it than it will take to buy a new one.
I don't think I'd put a aluminum/plastic radiator in a '69 Chevy. There should be plenty of all-aluminum, welded radiators for that application for less than a re-core will likely cost.
Rice Nuker
Let the Coal Roll!
heheh, I reckon it is a comparison. Do you want to keep the original rad? If I had a fairly nostalgic built and cared more about nostalgia than money I would have the rad re-cored.
If not and I did not want to spend much money, I would save the old rad in storage and compare a rockauto HD cooling type replacement with the price of say this:
http://www.shepherdautoparts.com/au.../w5DDl8OXw5bDm8K7w5rDkcOSw5LDjsORwqLCog==.htm
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If not and I did not want to spend much money, I would save the old rad in storage and compare a rockauto HD cooling type replacement with the price of say this:
http://www.shepherdautoparts.com/au.../w5DDl8OXw5bDm8K7w5rDkcOSw5LDjsORwqLCog==.htm
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LJS30
Well-Known Member
Well a shop in my locale says it might be a simple rod out which would cost about $100 bucks. This is a work truck so functionality and of course cost is truly the importance here.
Rice Nuker
Let the Coal Roll!
Hey that is a good price for full repair in my opinion if 100 is a firm price.
I called napa for the heck of it, rad = 350 bucks for a 69 1/2 ton with 396.
Showed aluminum core, plastic tanks!
For my Duster this rad shop wanted 100 - 200 dollars to rod out a friggin autozone radiator. Mice built a condo inside it. "Depending on how much work is involved". I am like f that. I will buy a new aluminum one for 2-300.
I called napa for the heck of it, rad = 350 bucks for a 69 1/2 ton with 396.
Showed aluminum core, plastic tanks!
For my Duster this rad shop wanted 100 - 200 dollars to rod out a friggin autozone radiator. Mice built a condo inside it. "Depending on how much work is involved". I am like f that. I will buy a new aluminum one for 2-300.
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