Has anyone painted their car with rollers

PoisonDart74 said
I disagree, I'm doing a in depth restoration and use rustoleum as we speak, differen't levels of prep, and what you say doesn't jive man. You don't have to spend $1000 a gallon for decent paint, nor have to epoxy the metal, or if you go to bare metal and it's sanded in any form with a stripping wheel or 150-220 sanding block, do you need self etching primer. That right there is mechanical etching.

Rustoleum is some very tough paint, lasts just fine from all accounts and my own expierence, longevity isn't even a question. The only thing you don't get is metal flake and custom colors.

Also, if down the road you want to use auto paint, lay a layer of fresh rustoleum down and spray, simple as that.

Cool it with the purist rants, and read the moparts post and lets end the debate, there is none.

Here is a video of the process and outcome:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_qPJTTRWttQ

Sorry dude, I do this for a living; non catalyzed enamel based paints are not gonna last not matter what. I have seen it many many times.

The only way to get a good paint job is to have proper prep (we also don't typically use high build primers because we actually do proper metal/filler work and high build primers shrink too much leaving sanding scratches) and use good materials. Now I am not saying you have to use $1000 a gallon materials in fact at the restoration/collision shop we use $150 a gallon clear (including hardener) regularly with great results.

Stuff like this may work fine for a home hobbyist (where it doesn't have to be perfect) but not in the real world. We can't have people coming back because we used bad paint.