none of my gauges are working.

You undoubtedly have TWO separate problems, as the ammeter is not interconnected with the temp/ fuel gauge.

First thing to try is the "quick and dirty" check.

Pull loose the temp sender wire, because it's easy to reach, and clip it to ground. Watching the gauge, turn the key to "run" and watch. The gauge should QUICKLY head for "hot." Don't leave the key on any longer than to tell if the gauge is moving well towards the high mark.

Here, generally, is how the gauge troubles break down. The instrument cluster receives power from what is called "IGN 1" or "ignition run", traditionally DARK BLUE. This branches off from the ignition switch, and feeds the cluster, and goes out through the bulkhead to feed the ignition, regulator, alternator field (blue) and a few other things, depending.

IF THE warning lamp for the oil / brake (parking brake) works, the cluster is probably getting power.

The general circuit path is IGN switch, -- cluster -- instrument regulator -- (branch off) to both gauges,

through the temp gauge, out through the bulkhead, to the temp sender, to ground

through the fuel gauge, down past the kick panel connector, to the rear through the rear harness, to the fuel sender, to ground

The areas of concern:

IS the cluster actually getting GOOD 12V power?

The cluster connector may be loose/ corroded

The pin(s) on the cluster PC board may be loose / corroded

The brass spring fingers which the instrument regulator plugs into may not be making good contact with the PC board

The nuts on the gauges may not be making contact between the gauge studs and the PC board.

There might be a break in the wire to the sender, especially through the bulkhead to the temp sender.

Just because the vr is pulsing, does not mean it is providing enough power. It may be barely making contact (dirty, worn out) and "under load) may be failing