How many amps to relay? Anyone Know?
Makes sence.
The amp guage is bypassed.
I have a 65 amp alt.
Just a in dash stereo, (No amp) and I don't drive it at night.
I do however have electric cooling.
Still I will get a 60 breaker just in case and throw it in the trunk in my box O stuff.
Sorry about calling you Redfisk, Redfish.
Typo
Makes sence.
The amp guage is bypassed.
I have a 65 amp alt.
Just a in dash stereo, (No amp) and I don't drive it at night.
I do however have electric cooling.
Still I will get a 60 breaker just in case and throw it in the trunk in my box O stuff.
Sorry about calling you Redfisk, Redfish.
Typo
No, a 30A breaker probably will NOT do it. Redfish said it. The fuse link carries ALL current (except the starter) to and from the battery, including CHARGING current unless you have performed the ammeter bypass.
Look at the simplified MAD diagram:
Follow from the battery, to the start relay to the fuse link, where it branches off "to starter"
NOTE that there is NO OTHER PATH except through the fuse link.
This means that if you have a 50, 60, 80?? A. alternator, ALL of that goes through the link
Follow on down, through the ammeter to the "welded splice" This is where ALL LOADS in the car split off.
The fuse box "hot" buss
The headlights
The ignition feed
ETC
So if you were in a "dark and stormy night" and you just happened to have "everything", lights, heater, wipers, your great big stereo, ?? turned on, and the engine was idling with no charging current, ALL of "that stuff" would be going through the link from the battery to all those loads.
BUT when you rev it back up and your ?? 80A ?? alternator surged to life to bring the battery back up, NOW you have all that charging current going through the link to the battery, so to speak.
IF YOU HAVE bypassed the ammeter, you need to figure what the total amp draw of all accessories are that goes through the link. You "might" get by with 30, but I think that's iffy.
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
