No power to the starter
You have several main branches supplied by the battery to the interior of the car
1. Fuse panel "hot" buss. This is the stuff such as tail lights that work with the key off
2 Fuse panel Accessory buss. This is the stuff, like heater, radio, that is switched and must have the key in "run" or "acc" to operate
3 Other. This is stuff that is not fed from the fuse panel, such as headlights, which come off of what is known as the "in harness splice." This is a factory, welded splice, a few inches down from the black ammeter wire, which feeds
headlights ONLY (not tail or park)
the fuse panel "hot" buss
the IGN switch main feed
couple of other things depending on model.
This is starting to sound like somethng major, such as bulkhead connector, ammeter, or the factory splice
First thing I would do is get up under the column--remove the small trim under it if necessary--so that you can access the igntion switch connector. You should then be able to probe the connector and determine
IF you have power INTO the switch
IF you have power coming out of the switch
Bear in mind that you actually have several switches inside the housing that we call the "switch"
Power INTO switch is #12 RED
1 ACCESSORY. hot in either accessory or "run" # 12 BLACK
2 "ignition run" or IGN1 Hot ONLY in "run" NOT start DARK BLUE
3 "start" feeds power to starter relay via the seat belt relay, hot ONLY in start YELLOW
4 "bypass" or IGN2 feeds power to ignition during start, hot only in start BROWN
ALSO when you say the seat belt interlock was disabled, this SHOULD have been done out at the reset relay in the engine bay. There is two yellow/ yellow tracer wires which should be jumpered together.
The MAD article here has a simplified drawing of the main path:
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
The splice does not fail often, but it CAN and HAS:
You have several main branches supplied by the battery to the interior of the car
1. Fuse panel "hot" buss. This is the stuff such as tail lights that work with the key off
2 Fuse panel Accessory buss. This is the stuff, like heater, radio, that is switched and must have the key in "run" or "acc" to operate
3 Other. This is stuff that is not fed from the fuse panel, such as headlights, which come off of what is known as the "in harness splice." This is a factory, welded splice, a few inches down from the black ammeter wire, which feeds
headlights ONLY (not tail or park)
the fuse panel "hot" buss
the IGN switch main feed
couple of other things depending on model.
This is starting to sound like somethng major, such as bulkhead connector, ammeter, or the factory splice
First thing I would do is get up under the column--remove the small trim under it if necessary--so that you can access the igntion switch connector. You should then be able to probe the connector and determine
IF you have power INTO the switch
IF you have power coming out of the switch
Bear in mind that you actually have several switches inside the housing that we call the "switch"
Power INTO switch is #12 RED
1 ACCESSORY. hot in either accessory or "run" # 12 BLACK
2 "ignition run" or IGN1 Hot ONLY in "run" NOT start DARK BLUE
3 "start" feeds power to starter relay via the seat belt relay, hot ONLY in start YELLOW
4 "bypass" or IGN2 feeds power to ignition during start, hot only in start BROWN
ALSO when you say the seat belt interlock was disabled, this SHOULD have been done out at the reset relay in the engine bay. There is two yellow/ yellow tracer wires which should be jumpered together.
The MAD article here has a simplified drawing of the main path:
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
The splice does not fail often, but it CAN and HAS:
