Anyone running a hydraulic clutch with their 833?

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My linkage attaches to the pedal in almost exactly the same place. My master cylinder is mounted at about the same height too. Maybe the bore sizes on the master cylinder and the slave cylinder should be switched...

What is the bore size on the Viper slave?
 
That I dont know. Another thing to consider is throwout bearing to clutch clearance. Mine is around .160. Most general specs ive found are .100-.200. I know jamesdart uses a 3/4 bore master with his Viper setup but he reported having issues with it hanging up and the clutch staying disengaged. Thats was why I chose a 7/8" bore and im glad I did.
 
How is the pedal feel on the 7/8" unit? I expect it will be a bit more firm than the 3/4" one that I have.
 
It's firm but not to firm imo compared to other cars I've driven. You know when you are in or out.
 
soon as i get time im going to measure my fork travle with the car cold,,then warmed up,,, i think im loosing travel when the car warms up,just enough to make it a little hard to get in to first gear,,, i have to look and see how close my hyd line is to my headers,,, it may only need insulation around the fluid line,,, but my guess its going to be a little better switching to a 7/8 master,,,
 
Fstfish66,
If you could measure your travel and let me know the bores of your master cylinder and slave cylinder (and maybe grab a picture of where your slave attaches to the clutch fork), I would be very grateful. There's not a lot of info regarding how far the clutch fork travels before the clutch fully disengages.

Thank you all for your responses.

-Mike
 
73SwingerBuild said:
Fstfish66,
If you could measure your travel and let me know the bores of your master cylinder and slave cylinder (and maybe grab a picture of where your slave attaches to the clutch fork), I would be very grateful. There's not a lot of info regarding how far the clutch fork travels before the clutch fully disengages.

Thank you all for your responses.

-Mike
Click to expand...

if you go page 1 of this topic my pics are there and so are soem oen elses,,,, i have not had any one to help me measure the fork travel,,,,,i want to measure it when it cold and warm,,,,i think i need a bigger bore master,,,,
 
Well, my 7/8" master cylinder should be in on Thursday. I will install it by Thursday or Saturday morning and let you all know if it fixed this issue.
 
73SwingerBuild said:
Well, my 7/8" master cylinder should be in on Thursday. I will install it by Thursday or Saturday morning and let you all know if it fixed this issue.
Click to expand...

ok cant wait to hear,,,,,did you measure the fork travel with the 3/4 bore master to comapre it to the 7/8 ??
 
Yes i did. With the 3/4" master, i had about 1/2" of fork travel (measured halfway down the fork arm, which is where i connected the slave to). I figured a shorter arm would increase the throw on the clutch side. We will see.
 
73SwingerBuild said:
Yes i did. With the 3/4" master, i had about 1/2" of fork travel (measured halfway down the fork arm, which is where i connected the slave to). I figured a shorter arm would increase the throw on the clutch side. We will see.
Click to expand...

my slave is connected to the fork in the same place as the factory linkage was,,, i see a guy once in a while with a set up in a street rod,, he drilled a hole in the fork 1 inch away from the orignal linkage hole for his slave,,

you may need to make a pedal stop when you switch to the 7/8 bore so you dont over stroke the slave,,,
 
I have a hydraulic volume calculator that I developed based on the amount of pedal swing, master cylinder volume, and slave cylinder volume. All I do is plug in my values. Once I have the new master hooked up, I will fine-tune my numbers and ensure that the slave cylinder will not be over-extended.

Definitely a good catch though, and good thing to note for people looking into this system.
 
Well, as I expected, I got the exact amount of clutch fork movement that I needed with the 7/8" master cylinder. Voila! the fork works right!

Now, here's the bad news- the car still won't go into gear... and I'm about 95% sure that it's because some dip$#!t (me) put the clutch disc in backwards. I read a few forums here and elsewhere and it seems that the clutch disc will not release from the pressure plate and flywheel if it is installed backwards. Also, I read centerforces website and saw that the full facing goes on the pressure plate side while the puc-facing goes on the flywheel side. I don't have any pictures, but I believe that is exactly what I have reversed.

I'm going to pull the transmission tonight and try to get it switched around. Wish me luck (at this rate, I will need it). I'll post my results so that others will know not to make this bonehead mistake.

-Mike
 
i believe the disc has stamped on it fly wheel side,,,good luck keep us posted,,, how much difference in travel do u have with the 7/8 bore over the 3/4 bore??
 
Yeah, it was. Either the sticker was on the wrong side or my mechanic buddy and I both screwed up. Either way, water under the bridge. I just hope I didn't score the flywheel.

The new master cylinder increase my throw by 50%. I went from 1/2" travel to 3/4" of travel at the slave, translating to a total of 1" of travel at the end of the clutch fork where most of you guys are grabbing it from. Therefore, my throw should be perfect.

I am pulling the tranny out tonight. I only had time to disconnect the driveshaft, remove the linkages, and drain it last night.

Wish me luck.

-Mike
 
73SwingerBuild said:
Yeah, it was. Either the sticker was on the wrong side or my mechanic buddy and I both screwed up. Either way, water under the bridge. I just hope I didn't score the flywheel.

The new master cylinder increase my throw by 50%. I went from 1/2" travel to 3/4" of travel at the slave, translating to a total of 1" of travel at the end of the clutch fork where most of you guys are grabbing it from. Therefore, my throw should be perfect.

I am pulling the tranny out tonight. I only had time to disconnect the driveshaft, remove the linkages, and drain it last night.

Wish me luck.

-Mike
Click to expand...


good luck let us know how u make out

sounds like you only gained about 1/4 inch of slave travel ??
 
fstfish66 said:
good luck let us know how u make out

sounds like you only gained about 1/4 inch of slave travel ??
Click to expand...

That's about how much I calculated I would gain.

I finished installing the rest of the pieces last night. If anybody is curious, you do not need to drop the bellhousing the pull/replace the tranny. There is plenty of room for the input shaft to draw out of the clutch/flywheel assembly and drop down without needing to pull the bellhousing down.
Wish I knew that on disassembly.

Anyways, everything works perfect now. I had a buddy spin the clutch disc with his finger while I pushed it in- insert trust here.
I haven't actually moved the car (need exhaust clamps to reconnect my exhaust, which was cut due to the exhaust shop welding everything in place), but I expect everything will work as needed.

Lesson learned- put the clutch in the correct way the first time around.

-Mike
 
73SwingerBuild said:
That's about how much I calculated I would gain.

I finished installing the rest of the pieces last night. If anybody is curious, you do not need to drop the bellhousing the pull/replace the tranny. There is plenty of room for the input shaft to draw out of the clutch/flywheel assembly and drop down without needing to pull the bellhousing down.
Wish I knew that on disassembly.

Anyways, everything works perfect now. I had a buddy spin the clutch disc with his finger while I pushed it in- insert trust here.
I haven't actually moved the car (need exhaust clamps to reconnect my exhaust, which was cut due to the exhaust shop welding everything in place), but I expect everything will work as needed.

Lesson learned- put the clutch in the correct way the first time around.

-Mike
Click to expand...

well glad u got her back together,,,get back to me when u get her on the grouind,,,

what is the total travel now of say the fork and where are you measureing it at the outer most end of the fork ??? does the pedal feel any stiffer with the bigger bore master ??? forget if you have 4 speed or 5 speed /?
 
I have a four speed, stock bellhousing/fork/throwout bearing, centerforce dual-friction clutch, and the travel at the end (where the large diameter hole is that the stock z-bar connects to) measures almost exactly 1"
 
kool thanks,,, all i have to do now is get some oen to push my pedal so i can maesure the travel with my 3/4 bore,,but im sure the 7/8 will do the trick
 
I finally got the exhaust back together and tested everything.

OH MAN! this 340 4-gear setup is going to be fun haha. To keep it relevant to the thread, the 7/8" master with the 7/8" slave works great. Full release and no grinding, not even going into reverse. I got it good and warm too, and it works great.

The centerforce clutch is definitely an in-or-out clutch, but it's smooth enough for the street where I can definitely make due.

Thanks all for the help and let me know if I can ever answer any questions for you. I have a lift and a lot of car buddies, so measuring and taking pictures is not an issue.

Thanks again!

-Mike
 
its good to hear you got it working. i think the slave cylinder i have is 3/4" bore and the master is a 5/8" bore so im not even gonna attempt to use it. what master and slave did you end up going with? since im starting over i was thinking of using a pull style slave to keep it a little farther from my exhaust.
 
glad to hear it all worked out,, ill soon be converting to the 7/8 bore master,,, ive been running a center force for 15 years now same clutch disc.. feels like a stocker on the legs with the hyd,,,,great clutch for my set up and a good priced unit,,
 
69-318 said:
its good to hear you got it working. i think the slave cylinder i have is 3/4" bore and the master is a 5/8" bore so im not even gonna attempt to use it. what master and slave did you end up going with? since im starting over i was thinking of using a pull style slave to keep it a little farther from my exhaust.
Click to expand...

Unfortunately, im going to be down in long island all week until thursday night. When i get back, i'll list pictures and part numbers for everything if you guys want.

To summarize, i have a Wilwood 7/8" bore master and a CNC 7/8" bore pull-style slave. The rest of the linkage pretty much consists of factory parts.
Hold tight on pics!

-Mike
 
awesome muchly appreciated. that will take alot of guess work out of my build. cant wait to start slammin gears :burnout: oh yeah
 
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