Notched passenger side fenders?

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Uhcoog1

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Who's done it? Who has pictures?

I searched a couple hours last night looking for the one set of pics I remember- couldn't find them! Any help would be appreciated. I started on my "notching" last night. I cut a lot out, to make sure I won't have any trouble pulling the valve cover when the motor is in the car.

I've gotta get this done today, because we're painting the engine bay tomorrow.

I'm planning on putting curved pieces in the slots. I'm actually going to use the piece of steering column shrouding I cut off.

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I cut out some of the shock tower, and braced it. I took a little more of the sheet metal to get a good weld on the shock tower, so I'll add that back on before welding in the "pipe".

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thats not a very strong area to begin with. I would be sure to reinforce it somehow.
 
Looks like it came out good. Are you running a 5.7 or a 6.1? Are you doing this solely for the purpose of being able to remove the valve covers with the motor in place or was the head stirring against the inner fender?

Thanks, Aj
 
It would be ironic if you were putting it into a Barracuda "notch" back....
 
It was sitting against the fender, which you can see in the first few pics. I could have done a lot less and gotten enough clearance, but I want to be able to pull the valve covers easily with the motor in place. I just marked the width of the valve cover bolt pad, marked the under side, and then tried to match the angle going up the fender.

This is a spool mount 73 duster, so I'm wondering if that has an affect. Most of the other cars doing the swap are biscuit mount, and most have adequate fender clearance. Not to mention, spacing a biscuit mount is easier than a spool. And I've already welded up headers with the motor sitting in th K
 
This is a 5.7, though there is no size difference between the two. I've got 6.1 aluminum valve covers. Another option would have been to run plastic valve covers, trim them, and run a different bolt. That *might* have worked, but wouldn't have left me room to pull valve covers with the motor in place.
 
Rat Patrol said:
I'm a little stunned by the lack of clearance.......

I was under the impression that the 6.1s dropped straight in with some frame rail work for the alternator...like the pic below.........
Click to expand...

You can see where I notched for my alternator in a couple pics. Didn't need much at all. Funny how that was less than some who do the swap, but my valve cover hit...
 
Rat Patrol said:
I'm a little stunned by the lack of clearance.......

I was under the impression that the 6.1s dropped straight in with some frame rail work for the alternator...like the pic below.........
Click to expand...

is this an effect of the spool mounts? Hm, I have sandwich. But I had to cut the Schuhmacher mounts and reweld to bring the engine in an acceptabel position. Enought space now....
 
I don't really think I am worried about gettin valve covers off with motor in. If I need access I figure I will just do like my transam that I had and loosen mounts and rock or jack up engine. I am not a big fan of the notches.
 
Are you using the TTI mounts?

Little surprised that it is that tight. The reality of these cars is that the tolerances of 60s and 70s manufacturing weren't very good. I've seen some of these swaps where the motor dropped in just fine while others had to shim, cut and scrape to get stuff to line up. :(

Regards,

Joe Dokes
 
Yes, TTI'S mounts.

I anticipate pulling the valve covers from time to time, so this was the right move for me.
 
Here is what I did to mine......But I have an Alterkation.
 

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Joe Dokes said:
Are you using the TTI mounts?

Little surprised that it is that tight. The reality of these cars is that the tolerances of 60s and 70s manufacturing weren't very good. I've seen some of these swaps where the motor dropped in just fine while others had to shim, cut and scrape to get stuff to line up. :(

Regards,

Joe Dokes
Click to expand...

I am going to run TTI mounts and stock K for right now just so I can get all the parts in the car and tested. K-Frame design will begin once I hear it purr and the winter time is upon us.
For the time being I will just design enough adjustment in my trans Cross member so I dont end up building a new one when the new K-Frame goes in. So what does this haft to do with nothces?
Just hope I can devise a way to not notch and still make room and retain the stock look.
 
How mine was cut.....but it was for the 2G HEMI...
 

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Hemi_Duster said:
I am going to run TTI mounts and stock K for right now just so I can get all the parts in the car and tested. K-Frame design will begin once I hear it purr and the winter time is upon us.
For the time being I will just design enough adjustment in my trans Cross member so I dont end up building a new one when the new K-Frame goes in. So what does this haft to do with nothces?
Just hope I can devise a way to not notch and still make room and retain the stock look.
Click to expand...

I notched, and one other member notched. Most everyone else has fit without notching the fender. So, most likely you're fine. If not, space the mount on that side for the short term.
 
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