Mustang Style IFS Swap 1968 Dart
I don't know if it was from what appears to be a hit at the front, or it could be from the one of the past owners who thought it was a good idea to pull the car out of a field with a tractor by the bumper bolt holes but my front clip is trashed. I have ordered two new inners and I'm still thinking about how I am going to do this with my dart but the basic plan is that I will run a 2x3 square tubing rail from the back rails to the front of the car, if I can find a shop that has a bender this will be a breeze but I may have to cut the rail to the shape I need.
I have found a site that sells a good looking tubular front suspension for $1500 (waaay cheaper than RMS and magnum force) and I am considering going with them. It's a fairly basic design from what I can see, main concern is how far it pushes the wheels in or out. Here is pretty close to what I'm considering, but in black.
Description: ZIG's Street Rods offers a nice new affordable complete Independent Front Suspension. Includes: Crossmember, your choice of Stock or 5/8" narrowed Tubular Upper & Lower Control Arms, black powder coated springs, gas HD Shocks, Stock or 2" Dropped Spindles, Large Brake Kit with 11 inch Rotors with 4-1/2" Ford Pattern or 10-1/2" Rotots with 4-3/4" GM Pattern, Comes with 3/16" boxing plates where necessary. Comes standard with Manual Rack, for Power Rack ADD $100.00.
Somewhere around $1600 for that set up, no idea if they will add some more fees on if I ask them to lengthen it, they have free shipping to certain states but being in Canada I have no idea what shipping will be, I'll ask though. Their other suspensions are really nice, so are scotts IFS's.
Seems like a good deal, I have to call them and see if they can have it made to A body frame rail width (34 inches outer to outer, 30 inches inner to inner). Be nice to see other people do this if it works out pretty easy, I for one am sick of the 60's tech torsion bar suspension. First thing I have to do right now is build a rotisserie that bolts onto the door hinges so I can work on the engine compartment area with ease.
Going to add that I will be using a motor plate to mount the engine (pretty sure I'll go with a 440 for now), no idea how you would do it with motor mounts but I think they have some IFS's that have motor mounts but they are likely ford and chev specific.
I don't know if it was from what appears to be a hit at the front, or it could be from the one of the past owners who thought it was a good idea to pull the car out of a field with a tractor by the bumper bolt holes but my front clip is trashed. I have ordered two new inners and I'm still thinking about how I am going to do this with my dart but the basic plan is that I will run a 2x3 square tubing rail from the back rails to the front of the car, if I can find a shop that has a bender this will be a breeze but I may have to cut the rail to the shape I need.
I have found a site that sells a good looking tubular front suspension for $1500 (waaay cheaper than RMS and magnum force) and I am considering going with them. It's a fairly basic design from what I can see, main concern is how far it pushes the wheels in or out. Here is pretty close to what I'm considering, but in black.
Description: ZIG's Street Rods offers a nice new affordable complete Independent Front Suspension. Includes: Crossmember, your choice of Stock or 5/8" narrowed Tubular Upper & Lower Control Arms, black powder coated springs, gas HD Shocks, Stock or 2" Dropped Spindles, Large Brake Kit with 11 inch Rotors with 4-1/2" Ford Pattern or 10-1/2" Rotots with 4-3/4" GM Pattern, Comes with 3/16" boxing plates where necessary. Comes standard with Manual Rack, for Power Rack ADD $100.00.
Somewhere around $1600 for that set up, no idea if they will add some more fees on if I ask them to lengthen it, they have free shipping to certain states but being in Canada I have no idea what shipping will be, I'll ask though. Their other suspensions are really nice, so are scotts IFS's.
Seems like a good deal, I have to call them and see if they can have it made to A body frame rail width (34 inches outer to outer, 30 inches inner to inner). Be nice to see other people do this if it works out pretty easy, I for one am sick of the 60's tech torsion bar suspension. First thing I have to do right now is build a rotisserie that bolts onto the door hinges so I can work on the engine compartment area with ease.
Going to add that I will be using a motor plate to mount the engine (pretty sure I'll go with a 440 for now), no idea how you would do it with motor mounts but I think they have some IFS's that have motor mounts but they are likely ford and chev specific.
