Convertible top won't go all the way down.

-

War1

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2012
Messages
78
Reaction score
0
Location
Bay Area, CA
Hey FOBA's,

I have a 65 Vali Vert and the top sticks out of the housing and won't collapse flush like some Verts I've seen. Any experience with this issue folks?

Thanks!
 
Hey FOBA's,

I have a 65 Vali Vert and the top sticks out of the housing and won't collapse flush like some Verts I've seen. Any experience with this issue folks?

Thanks!
here is the manual's way. pushing out on pads between the top bows instead of letting the top fold in like it always wants to. (i just tried it on the other dart that still has most of the top on it and it sure did make a difference 4 inches in my case) it helps lower in about another 2 inches to get a smoother fit of the boot or in cases like myne the boot now does fit!

View attachment loweringtop.jpg
 
My guys at the body shop working on my Challenger convert showed me that there are zippers that you should bring down before lowering the top. This makes it so the top is not pulled so tight when we put it down. By leaving them zipped, it puts more pressure on the top and pulls it real tight and starts to stretch/tear it.
 
"here is the manual's way. pushing out on pads between the top bows instead of letting the top fold in like it always wants to. (i just tried it on the other dart that still has most of the top on it and it sure did make a difference 4 inches in my case) it helps lower in about another 2 inches to get a smoother fit of the boot or in cases like mine the boot now does fit!"

No wonder mine won't go all the way down, almost though. I've been stopping the mechanism 1/2 way down, and tucking the fabric IN, looks like I've been doing it wrong. When I get back home (in the bush now!), I look forward to trying it!


Thanks for that info. This question seems to be asked quite regularly, I think you'll be helping a few people out with that info.


Dan
 
"here is the manual's way. pushing out on pads between the top bows instead of letting the top fold in like it always wants to. (i just tried it on the other dart that still has most of the top on it and it sure did make a difference 4 inches in my case) it helps lower in about another 2 inches to get a smoother fit of the boot or in cases like mine the boot now does fit!"

No wonder mine won't go all the way down, almost though. I've been stopping the mechanism 1/2 way down, and tucking the fabric IN, looks like I've been doing it wrong. When I get back home (in the bush now!), I look forward to trying it!


Thanks for that info. This question seems to be asked quite regularly, I think you'll be helping a few people out with that info.


Dan
remember to unzip the window and lay it straight in the well (I never knew it would make that big a difference,till I saw another dart owner that had a top for 11 years and the window looked new still) so it doesn't get creased. I don't have my new one on the dart yet but that's what I'll be doing once I do get it on.
 
I'm intrested on your fix, are we talking power or manual top. I might learn something,
Moe
It's the same procedure for both really. it's just easier if you have a power top.(stop it halfway and push the top out then lower it all the way) I use beezwax(sp)or unscented candle wax on the brass window zippers to keep it for jamming . all it takes is a little to lube it and it lasts for about a year each application.
I took my top apart when I did my last convertible and used a waxy like lubricant that is supposed to go inside a sealed tube for motorcycles(don't remember the darn name now) to prevent corrosion in the pivot points. that worked like a dream, smooth and even lift and never did get harder to lift. I'll have to got back on the old goldwing site and search for that waxy lubricant/sealer.
 
What a great tip.
I always fold my convertible top IN. :violent1:

Never even though about folding it OUT.

Always leave the window on too. :banghead:

I'm heading out for breakfast this coming sunday so i'll try your method out. Sure hope that it helps.

Let you know how it goes.

Thanks again for the tip 66Dvert. :cheers:
Gary
 
here is the manual's way. pushing out on pads between the top bows instead of letting the top fold in like it always wants to. (i just tried it on the other dart that still has most of the top on it and it sure did make a difference 4 inches in my case) it helps lower in about another 2 inches to get a smoother fit of the boot or in cases like myne the boot now does fit!

View attachment 1714537466

Hey I'll have to try this out soon! Thanks a million friend:glasses7:
 
OK, just to let you know that I tried the "special" top fold method on my '63.
It did improve the fold a bit, but it still sticks up too much for my liking.

The part that sticks up above the body line is the metal part of the bows (nearest to the rear quarter windows) not the soft top part around the back.

Not sure if that makes sense to you blokes but that's what I have found.
Gary
 
Hey all~
Similar to what 66Dvert added, I lubricated (spray silicone) the metal pivot points / hinges in the top and it made a world of difference in helping the top fold down into the rear well.

Hope that helps!

Cheers - Howie :cheers:
 
Thanks Howie, every little bit of info helps.
I feel like getting on top of mine and jumping up and down!!!!!!:banghead:
 
Hey FOBA's,

I have a 65 Vali Vert and the top sticks out of the housing and won't collapse flush like some Verts I've seen. Any experience with this issue folks?

Thanks!
here's the lowest I've seen it in a picture and the metal part that folds forward is still up about an 1in to 1 1/2 in the picture. Mine sure as heck doesn't go that low bout 1 1/2 2 1/2 from the chrome trim depending on how it folds the material and if the pads get pinched in the mechanism.
View attachment 66_Dodge_Dart_GT_Convertible.jpg

of course it the car in the picture) was new and prepped for the pictures. I've been able to get mine close to that when the top was new and everything greased up.
 
-
Back
Top