synthotic oil

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I run the Mobil1 full synthetic for performance engines , or the enhanced performance version along with the KN filter as per my engine builders instructions , I just ran 10,000km in less than 2 weeks almost all highway between changes and the stuff works great.
I can only get the first one in 15-50 so it is my summer oil and the the latter I get in 10-30 or even 5-30 for the colder months .
 
seabee said:
I make my own filters so I can afford synthetic oil. I
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Ok send me one.
 
The thing that convinced me to go synthetic was I met a guy who worked for a company that made turbos. They'd test the turbos to failure. After the turbos failed they'd inspect them and determine the failure and use the information to improve the design.

The company decided to switch the testing procedures from standard oil to synthetic. The only problem was they could no longer get the turbos to fail.

I do believe a coulpe of myths (I would call them myths because they are all stories I've 'heard') about synthetics. First, you should break in a motor using conventional oil. Second, switching a high mileage motor to full synthetics can cause oil consumption issues and or leaks.

They sell mobil 1 at Costco, that's what I'd use.

Also regardless of what you've heard, you should change ANY oil at least twice a year regardless of mileage. Condensation from temperature changes can and will foul the oil with water. This water can combine with the oil to cause some corrosion inside the motor. Modern oils of all types are designed to prevent this corrosion but the additives are used up over time.

Regards,

Joe Dokes
Joe Dokes
 
Dad did the first oil change in his 78 power wagon 360 when it was new to mobil 1.
Changed the oil once a year since then.
At 213K the rear main was leaking and ruined the clutch.
We pulled the motor to change the clutch, dad said to rebuild the motor while it was out, I pulled a main and rod bearing it looked new. Just threw new gaskets in it and it still is running fine at over 240K.
Good oil and clean filter is the key to engine longitivity.
 
I've been running Castrol GTX in the Dart for a long time. I always used 4 quarts of 10W-30 and the last quart was 5W-30. Wix filters the whole way.

This last oil change, I stepped up to Castrol Full Synthetic. In came in a 5 quart jug so she's runnin' 5 quarts of 10W-30.

Where do I get these ellusive zinc additives I'm always hearin' about? I'd love to get in on that.
 
I used synthetic Castrol for years racing two strokes ( MOTOCROSS, HI REV ) for years. We used to call it bean oil. Never had a problem whatsoever, other that less than normal wear!
 
I run Amsoil Zrod oil with a wix fliter in my old cars and have nothing bad at all to say about it. I also run Amsoil 15w40 diesel oil in my cummins truck with there filter. I guess everyone has there own idea of what oil to run and that seems to be mine. You have to watch as alot of synthetic oils are not 100% synthetic and are just a blend.
Matt
 
BuRP Like I said bean oil. El Rincon has Good Food! With no additives. I'm having a bad Day, but if you're in the area try them. DC
 
/6 Matt said:
I've been running Castrol GTX in the Dart for a long time. I always used 4 quarts of 10W-30 and the last quart was 5W-30. Wix filters the whole way.

This last oil change, I stepped up to Castrol Full Synthetic. In came in a 5 quart jug so she's runnin' 5 quarts of 10W-30.

Where do I get these ellusive zinc additives I'm always hearin' about? I'd love to get in on that.
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Here ya go http://davidnavone.com/zencart/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=9
 
Amsoil has a wide range of viscosities and types of high zinc oils to choose from for your engine. I use it in all of my vehicles as well as their Supershift in my race 904 and their Universal Synthetic Fluid in my 2004.5 Dodge diesel dually tow vehicle.

[ame]http://www.amsoil.com/techservicesbulletin/MotorOil/TSB%20MO-2007-08-08%20Flat%20Tappet.pdf[/ame]

Source & additional info: www.thelubepage.com

I've seen idle rpm increases from simply from changing from conventional break-in oil to Amsoil synthetic race oil, engines look good when apart for freshening, there are ET and mpg benefits, trans builder commented that I should keep using what I have in my race trans, synthetics tend to run cooler due to less friction in all applications - engine, trans & rear, synthetics are much more heat resistant, so the provide extra insurance in turbo use as well as in transmissions, where heat is the #1 problem, etc. Cooler water temps were obvious in a '92 Dodge diesel dually that I had. My differential guy likes the reduced wear from Amsoil and I sometimes reuse the bearings.

If an engine leaks or uses oil when changing from conventional to synthetic, it's because it has issues that the synthetics make obvious.

I prefer to use oil with enough zinc blended in from the manufacturer as opposed to adding. But I do add Comp Cams additive to my conventional diesel oil for engine break-in only. I haven't gotten around to trying the new amsoil break-in lube.

Not all synthetics are created equal, so do your research.
 
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