Solid-State Voltage Regulator Conversions

OK, if you insist on using a generator, it is possible, believe it or not, that the 6V will output 12V just fine. If not you'll need to do one of several things. This depends on how "original you want it to "look."

1 possible the 6v generator will work at 12

2 you can have a real rebuild shop rewind the 6v for 12v

3 Find a later similar Jeep 12v generator. I'm not sure when Willys went 12V but I'd guess 55-56

4 Find a 12V generator that will physically fit or that you can build brackets to fit. This can be off most any vehicle.

NOW THE REGULATOR


It is IMPORTANT to realize that you do NOT polarize the regulator but rather the generator. Therefore, there is no such thing as a "positive" or a "negative" ground generator

So far as regulator ground, some DO matter. Some OEM regulators had the contacts material made such that if run at reversed polarity, you would burn up the contacts. Many (probably most) aftermarket replacement regulators had different contact materials, so that they would operate EITHER neg. or positive ground.

SO THE TYPE OF regulator determines what ground polarity you can run. Most 12V vehicles are neg ground, but some heavy trucks (White, I think) were 12V pos. ground. Who knows?? Why did Mopar use left hand lug nuts?

It is EXTREMELY important to discover which "circuit type" your system is to not only get a proper regulator, but to polarize the generator. Autolite made BOTH "A" and "B" field circuits, so you MUST figure this out.

It is EXTREMELY important that the regulator be designed for same as or SMALLER than your generator, because the regulator current relay cuts back on current, protecting the generator. Google "throwing solder."

So the main points of choosing a regulator are:

Must be able to operate on proper (neg) ground polarity, or with either poliarity

Must be proper field circuit

Must be rated at same as generator output current or LESS, IE regulator must "match" the generator. Do NOT use a "heavy duty" regulator on a light duty alternator.

(An aside: "A" and "B" field circuits are sort of analageous to Mopar early (69/ earlier) and late (70/ later) alternator regulator circuits. In the one case, the regulator controls the "ground" on the end of the field, and in the other case, the regulator is in series with power to the field.

MY QUESTION IS as clean as that photo looks, why on earth would you want to convert such a beauty to 12V?