I Blame CHIP FOOSE he's making me crazy

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johnparts

Slammed 1
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So I liked Chip Foose's official facebook page the other day, and, saw some photos he posted of a car he's currently working on that is slammed on bags with a corvette front and rear suspension. Looking at the pictures something caught me completely off guard. He ran the front lower control arm mount inside the frame. Now I don't mean inside like where the engine sits, I mean litterally INSIDE the frame. If you want to know what I'm talking about go here. http://www.chipfoose.com/ws_display.asp?filter=Current_Builds and look at the Foose Woody build. My mind is racing at the thought of the engineering in this suspension and how I can steal some of the design elements for my build.
 
Not too hard. Just cut out the bottom of the frame and weld in some vertical plates to mount the LCAs to. This opening below leaves access to slide a wrench underneath the frame and to slide the LCA bolts through. You'd need to be a fairly precise welder, and know where to add the supports, but its honestly not too hard to do.
 
Whats the point; Longer LCA's do what? more travel (thinking 3' Ford twin I beams) ?
 
Whats the point; Longer LCA's do what? more travel (thinking 3' Ford twin I beams) ?

I don't think he's really using longer arms. Looks Vette to me. The advantage of what he's building here I believe is a much lower ride height with proper geometery.
 
Even if I don't like what he does all the time, he comes off as one of the most amiable guys around- know a couple guys up here that deal with him fairly regularly and say he is really that way.
Guys I can't/couldn't stand?
1) Boyd Coddington
2) Jessie James
3) Don Prudhomme (maybe he was having a bad day when I saw him
but man was he being a pr*ck)
 
I dig the frame rails. Just goes to show you can make anything out of anything, just time and money and a little pen and pad.
 
Even if I don't like what he does all the time, he comes off as one of the most amiable guys around- know a couple guys up here that deal with him fairly regularly and say he is really that way.
Guys I can't/couldn't stand?
1) Boyd Coddington
2) Jessie James
3) Don Prudhomme (maybe he was having a bad day when I saw him
but man was he being a pr*ck)
good or bad day, nope he really is a prk
 
And I have had the pleasure of meeting Chip a few times (had lunch with him at SEMA 08) Really cool down to earth guy.
 
Roadster Shop has done some similar things. Are you using stock frame rails? If so I would be concerned but if you're using/building new rails, go for it. Not hard to do at all. I should have done something similar with my cross-member, but I'm NOT redoing it again. Doing that to get it low though doesn't seem to make sense to me. Is this for static display or ride height? If ride height, would seem to me your issue is going to be tire size/interference with inner fender and even top of the fender, as well as cross-member/k-frame or whatever you're using. I would argue that my build will be one of the lowest ride height Mopars around with stock fenders. I'm at 5" to the rocker with just enough clearance at the fender mount to get full tire/wheel travel. If you are buldging the tops of the fenders for the tires that's another thing altogether. What is your goal for height, ride or static?
 
Will I'm going for "Slammed" at the show stuff. Ride height will be higher because I live in Illinois and have a steep driveway to deal with and we know the roads in the midwest SUCK. I was thinking of reinforcing the factory rails with a c notch section of 3/16th wall stock and go from there basically doubling the size of the metal under the hood then build a "Shock tower" and eliminate the inner fenders and replace with a custom fabbed inner fender once all was built.
 
You're using air and 20's right? Biggest issue you will have is tire diameter when using 20's, both front and back, depending on sidewall of course. When mine will be deflated, I'll be at 2 inches to the rocker and will have about 1/2" from the fender mounting flange and the tire. If you haven't ordered your shocks yet, you might want to connect with RideTech and talk through it with them, maybe they can make a shock length recommendation to get what you want. Before you do any cutting, pull the shocks and springs and drop the car down to your "slam" (with wheels/tires on of course), see what you have for clearance on the fender so you know what work needs to be done there, but also measure to the shock mounts in the front & rear. Then do the same at ride height. This will give you an idea of shock length needed to get where you want with stock mounting locations. You may have to relocate shock mounts up front in order to get the proper length shock in there. Rob channeled his Alter-k into the frame rails in order to get the stance he wanted, that may be something to look into for yourself as well. You're biggest issue regardless, I suspect, will be the mounting flange on the fender itself. If you're bulding custom inners, those are not an issue, but the flange on the fender could be.
 
Will that's how I gathered my rear ride height numbers. I put tires and wheels on it after the tub job and I basically dropped the car on the tires then raised it up from there. I gave myself 3" of up and down travel from the middle ground. I actually ended up setting the rear rails right on the axle housing before my 285/45/20's touched. Up front I'm gonna try a 245/35/20 and follow the same basic rule of setting it down and measure up from there.
 
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