Reverse shift problem
You are being way to hard on your self.
Just shorten or add some length to the rod and be done with it.
You already have mis-matched parts so make what you have work.
Before I 'make' what I have work, I would prefer to determine a correct way to do it. Granted, there may be no 'correct' way having the passle of mis-matched parts as you say.
If '..add some length to the rod' refers to the shift rod, that isn't the issue. I can adjust the rod to whatever length I want. The reference is maybe to adding length to the shifter lever? I don't know the first thing about welding stuff..and cutting into a lever that might cost me a
whole lot of $$ to replace, plus the whole issue of shift rod alignment once the lever is longer would be my last choice of 'fix it'.
I talked to Wayne (Brewer's Performance) about the 6353 lever. He said they are essentially the same except for maybe the rod hole. He asked if I had any stop bolts in the shifter. There is one: In the forward (1-3-R) hole. 'Take it out,' he said.
Yes. That will provide a farther throw on the reverse lever, but also for the 1-3 movement. He said, 'Don't worry about it.'
Granted: As Wayne stated, later Comp+ shifters had no stop bolts at all. This does relate to a 'make it work' approach. I'll choose a Hurst lever made for the application
with the stop bolts in the shifter body over removing existing parts to 'make it work.' Have to wonder, though, why Hurst removed the bolts on later units..and even left the threaded holes out of their later product.
Wayne mentioned that the stop bolts in older shifters caused more problems than they ever solved/prevented.
When I get my washer/clip set, I'll get the shifter back in and vary the depth of the stop bolt to see if there is a happy medium to its presence for both 1-3 shifts
and proper reverse engagement.
Oh...
mopardude62 said
Make sure those stop bolts on the shifter itself are not stopping it from going all the way forward. I recently switched shifters and found that was the problem with the old shifter someone had replaced the stop bolt (and jam nut) with a longer bolt so I was not getting the shifter to move far enough to throw it into gear.
I
did take note of that post, but figured if the 1-3 throw was correct, that changing the depth of the stop bolt for
only the benefit of reverse shifting would be a mistake.
Yep. This has gone on a good bit. Still I'd prefer, if there IS a correct way to do something, to DO it that way..and not jerry-rig it.
Thanks for the tips/pointer/questions. I appreciate it..and WILL get to a place that I'm not beating this particular shiftless horse to death! :sleepy1:
