Shafers model car thread
- Thread starter shafer
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shafer
Well-Known Member
goldfish65
Well-Known Member
Need tips on avoiding orange peel. The bronze paint is a base coat and requires a clear top coat. The clear is Duplacolor and I'm having trouble getting a smooth finish. I should have picked a less conspicuous part of the car to get the hang of this but I painted the hood. I am on my third coat of clear. Probably going to have to sand it down and start over. Any tips on getting a nice smooth glossy finish? Thanks.
4spdcuda66
Well-Known Member
I do mine the same way I do a real car. Wet sand with 1500-2000 grit and buff. Remember, you're not trying to take off a lot of material, you just want to knock the orange peel off. Once the clear coat is dull, use your cutting compound and a stiff flannel buffing wheel on your Dremmel or whatever brand rotary tool you use. After that, switch to polishing compound and a SOFT flannel buffing wheel. Take care to stay away from door handles, locks, emblems or anything else that might wear off with the sandpaper. Here are a few I've done, hope the photos do them justice. Maybe some day I'll actually finish these cars!! The Camaro was a gift to a friend that I could not convert to the Mopar side of life.
dge467
Well-Known Member
Nice haulers Brian!
shafer
Well-Known Member
some of my latest project
a raced kyle petty car , and a 1977 iroc camaro
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a raced kyle petty car , and a 1977 iroc camaro
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goldfish65
Well-Known Member
Experimenting with a way to 'chrome' the emblems which are embossed in the plastic. I carved up a makeup sponge, sprayed some 'chrome' paint onto a paper plate, put the sponge into the paint, blotted the excess, then lightly dabbed on the paint. I'm satisfied with it. I would rather have just a little hint of shine on the raised letters than have it look sloppy. Maybe once the clear coat goes on it will shine more. Anyone else have a better way?
goldfish65
Well-Known Member
Thanks that seems easier. I just don't have a silver one.
Hey I glued the engine together wrong. How do unglue pieces without breaking them?
Edit: fixed it. Note to other blonds: be sure you are ungluing the pieces that need it.
DUSTPAN340
Well-Known Member
Kegan...check ebay for the grill..I got mine at a swap meet made of resin...but I have seen them on ebay...useing the shell and interior of my Duster model and then throwing the rest away...then putting a slot chassis under it for slot drag racing...that way one of my cars might be fast 
I used spray gloss coat for the first time! Gun metal gray/ deep purple 53' Studebaker looks AWESOME!!! Made the colors look deeper.
For the emblems sponges work great... paint pens aren't so hot for that fine work.
Next project up is a '40 Ford pick-up. Deep metallic red and gun metal gray.
For the emblems sponges work great... paint pens aren't so hot for that fine work.
Next project up is a '40 Ford pick-up. Deep metallic red and gun metal gray.
dartman1965
Well-Known Member
Hey goldfish65,try warming the can of paint in a pot of warm water for 5-7 min.It helps the paint to lay down better.
goldfish65
Well-Known Member
Thanks I just gave that a try! For some reason, I'm having trouble getting the hood to turn out perfect, and that's the one panel you're eye is drawn to most.
shafer
Well-Known Member
get bowl of water place engine in and stick in the freezer for a while , use hobby knife parts will unglue like magic
goldfish65
Well-Known Member
Thanks for all the help I've gotten here. Today was a lot of painting. I tried to duplicate the real car as much as I could. Sorry if I'm being a bore but this is my first model so I'm excited....
Frankie
Member #9641
First one, eh? Well, looks like you're getting off to a good start! :thumbup:
66340SEDAN
FABO Member #3649
Can I join in? I built this when I was 14 or 15, over 20 years ago when I was a kid. Its a 71 Cuda Sox & Matrin kit, check out the vintage M/T valve covers I used from an older kit. Thought I would share some pics, its a little dusty but has won several trophies at model contests, Thanks!
Frankie
Member #9641
Wow! Nice work!
66340SEDAN
FABO Member #3649
Here is my 1960 Plymouth Wagon I did when I was 13, it is a Johan kit with a AMT 68 road Runner pro-street chassis
66340SEDAN
FABO Member #3649
Thanks!
Frankie
Member #9641
Another excellent model! I'm truly impressed!
Do you still build?
Do you still build?
goldfish65
Well-Known Member
Very impressive models for anyone, even more so for a youngster. Venturing off the instruction sheet is a talent not all of us have.
I'm noticing how nice the paint jobs are on both.
I'm noticing how nice the paint jobs are on both.
66340SEDAN
FABO Member #3649
No, I haven't, it was 20 years ago. I quit because when I turned 16 I got my 74 Satellite and I started working on the real things. I had a really cool 69 Daytona I built but it got broken apart when it fell off the seat in my car when I had to slam on the brakes (I was returning from a car show that had a model car contest), it was in a box but fragile and broke in many pieces. I was so bummed out that that was the last one I completed. I really need to re-assemble it, barely any damage, just lots of pieses, my best work too. I always kit bashed, never any directions :glasses7:
66340SEDAN
FABO Member #3649
Here are some pics of a 1970 Charger R/T original issue kit from 1970, very rare, my dad built it as a kid and I started to refinish it but never got it done. I even sent the bumpers in for rechroming just like a real car LOL!! The paint is done on the body but needs to be detailed and cleaned, very dusty. I want to finish it, maybe this winter, I went with a 440 in this one. I sanded the emblems off and have an old Fred Caddy decal sheet with the emblems on it, when applied they look real. Wish I had painted the hood though, probably don't have the paint I originally used so it may not match.
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