How do you tell what liter your Slant 6 is?

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vanleer mopars

vanleer mopars

Mopar or no car!
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Hello
I am a recent owner of a 74 Plymouth Scamp Slant 6. My water pump has recently gone out and I need help to replace it. Unfortunately there are two different liters of the engine the 3.2 and the 3.7. How can I tell what size my engine is so that I may buy the right water pump?
Also the number and letters on my engine are as follows.
2806830-4 22031 BH
AAJ
Thanks for your help
Van Leer Mopars
 

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When searching NAPA it showed the same part number water pumps for both engines. New One TFW 43025 and Remanufactured one WP 58177

Casting Number Size Year Engine Family
2202843 170 G
2205630 170 G
2463395 170 G
2264478 170 G
2463230 170 1965 G
— 198 G
2202857 225 RG
2205528 225 RG
2463430 225 1966 RG
2806830 225 1968-70 RG
3462605 225 1975 RG
2951694 225 RG
 
1 cubic inch = 0.0163871 liter. 225 cubic inches = 3.69 liters. It's right there on Google. A search function is a hell of a tool.
 
Cool thanks, just wanted to make sure I bought the right part. tell you what water pumps are sure cheaper for classics than for modern cars. only around 25 bucks for new one and 35 for the fan clutch.

Thanks for your time
 
vanleer mopars said:
How can I tell what size my engine is so that I may buy the right water pump?
Click to expand...


The displacement is stamped into the top of the block right behind the alternator. You will be looking for a data flange with numbers stamped into it. The spot will likely be greasy and covered with dirt. The data flange is part of the headgasket deck so it becomes unreadable if the block is milled.

But yes all slant water pumps are the same for the majority of years.
 
vanleer mopars said:
water pumps are sure cheaper for classics than for modern cars.
Click to expand...
Same for alternators, starters, etc. I have gotten many parts real cheap on ebay, like $25 for a new Carter BBD carburetor. You just have to spend time and search PN's. There are a few rare parts that could disable you, so stock-pile. For a slant, the exhaust manifold is one. Good thing is you can get a used engine/tranny almost free from the many people changing to a V-8. Ditto for the rear end. You just need a place to store them.
 
Man ill tell u what it was harder than hell to get old water pump off, the bolts were so rusted , we had to cut then off, then bang them out. Then previous owner never had a clutch fan, so I tried but set up was a no go hits the radiator.
So my new question for you slant 6 owners do u currently run yours also without a clutch fan, or is this something I need to be concerned about? I have no over heating problems as of yet even before changing out the old water pump.
Thanks for your help
 
I personally have never seen a clutch fan on any slant six. Maybe it was an option, but I have had many slants and not a single clutch fan.
 
Thanks, yeah I was curious about that myself, because autozone tried to sell me one saying if you change the water pump u should change the clutch fan too, because they are in same area. So I thought I check first to make sure.
Also now in another situation, was changing out the valve gasket, and noticed one of the valve bolts was broke off into the motor. So now I have to try and figure out how to get bolt out and also placing a new one back in. Someone told me I would have to drill it out and then drill a new hole.
Does anyone have any recommendations on how or what procedure to attempt?
Thanks
 
I can tell you what not to do. Don't try to get it out with a cheap Harbor Freight "easy out". They invariably break off in the bolt and then you have a piece of hard steel you can't drill. I did that on my 383. My best luck has been to drill a pilot hole directly in the center of the bolt, then gradually bigger, then use the correct tap to get the bolt out in pieces. You might also drill it out enough where you can peel the remainder inward with a little screwdriver. The trick is in getting a centered starting hole. Some machine shops have a "tap burner" that vaporizes even hardened steel electrically, but you must remove the head and bring to the shop.
 
Thanks for the advice, I decided to take it to a shop and have a professional do it. I do not want to make the situation worse. Sorry to hear about 383 wedge, from hearing your story I have extremely bad luck so I did not want to chance it. There gonna drill it our for me tomarrow. Also gonna run some compression test to make sure fireing properly since this vehicle is gonna be my new daily driver. Thanks again for your help.
 
vanleer mopars said:
Thanks, yeah I was curious about that myself, because autozone tried to sell me one saying if you change the water pump u should change the clutch fan too, because they are in same area. So I thought I check first to make sure.
Also now in another situation, was changing out the valve gasket, and noticed one of the valve bolts was broke off into the motor. So now I have to try and figure out how to get bolt out and also placing a new one back in. Someone told me I would have to drill it out and then drill a new hole.
Does anyone have any recommendations on how or what procedure to attempt?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Get your self an easy out they will save you so much hassle, you drill a small hole in the center of the broken bolt then gently tap the easy out into the hole then put a ratchet on and turn it opposite thread and if it doesnt grab gently tap in a little snugger and it should grab the broken left overs and turn it rite out with no need to re-thread the hole. The make a good range of sizes.
 
If you can, a clutch fan is the way to go. Eliminate all that wasted mechanical drag and noise.

You probably need to run a slim - short clutch:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HDA-2765/

Folks use these when putting a big block in an a-body because they fit the shaft - holes and are short

I dont know if this will work with a slant in an abody but I bet others here will know.
 
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