Yeah, I screwed up but will this work?

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Inspector71

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I got in a hurry, I got lazy, I got stupid (maybe already was) but I was using my sander and my grinder to remove rust and then paint from the engine compartment. I probably didn't need to take it to bare metal but once I got going, it looked so good. And then the firewall. I got careless, and prepare to scream, used grit number 80. Yep. Left all kinds of grind marks in that nice shiny steel. So what I'm wondering is this, could I go over it say with 200 grit and then, incrementally, work my way up to say 1500 grit and eventually work those nasty marks and gouges out? The inner fender where the battery sits is pitted but not rusted out. I got too aggressive there as well and may try to hit that with a dremel. For those wondering, who cares, it's in the engine compartment (the worst is the transmission tunnel (auto) where the engine would probably hide the marks once primered and painted. I want to learn to do it right. Its that simple. Thanks for any advice, rebuke, and scorn I need to fix this.
 
EEK ... grinder .....i would try to work some of it out with a 100 and then 220 grit flap wheel.....
 
I'm in KC. Need me to come out and point and laugh? Will that help ease the pain?
 
I bet you can clean it up pretty decent, and I'm sure there is some kind of primer that would help cover it as well.

I'm not a paint guy, maybe one of them will jump in with a suggestion..
 
You can shoot the engine compartment with "slick sand" you can get it from eastwood. It's basically spray bondo. I've used it on several projects and it fills very well and is easy to sand
 
not a body guy. if im wrong here someone please correct me. couldn't you just put a glazing putty over the area and knock it back down? seems like that would be pretty quick and easy. putty sands down with very little effort.
 
I'm in KC. Need me to come out and point and laugh? Will that help ease the pain?

I'm 30 miles north of you call me and let me know when your going, I could use a good laugh also. LOL
 
Ignore the stupid price but this will work great for your problem. We have used a lot of it and it works great.

http://www.clausenautobody.com/proddetail.php?prod=rust-defender

rust_defender_detail.gif
 
Some really great advice and I appreciate it. I knew I was going to have to take some heat, but I had it coming, and I had to fess up to being stupid but you all have helped. As for coming over and laughing, yeah, I deserve that too and I'd be in no way offended if you did. I'm going to print this for the products listed and start my research. I've learned my lesson...always ask the experts first. Thanks guys.
 
I wouldn't call you stupid over this and it is likely not so serious as you think. I would expect that if you hit it with an orbital sander, then spray a good sealer on it followed by a high fill primer, sand the primer and then more primer if needed you will be likely near ready to paint. enjoy life, there are worse things you could have done :)
 
Sheesh, tough crowd.....lol

I'm no expert, but you definately didn't do something that can not be rectified. When you're done, nobody will even notice.
 
D/A it with 180 and spray some epoxy primer on it. A quart should be enough to spray it. The spray some FeatherFill or SlickSand your going to need a spray gun with a big tip at least 1.8, 2.0 is better. sand it out with 180, then 220. Depending on how mice you want it to look you can either spray it with sealer then color or spray it with 2K high build and wet sand it with 400. You can spray color over the 2K or seal it and then spray your color.
 
you messed up we all have but your doing it and learning and that's what its about
 
Oklacarcollecto said:
Ignore the stupid price but this will work great for your problem. We have used a lot of it and it works great.

http://www.clausenautobody.com/proddetail.php?prod=rust-defender

rust_defender_detail.gif
Click to expand...


This stuff fills like no tomorrow, if you do use it be aware it is VERY transparent, you will run it if you try to get coverage right away, it's building way more than you think... slightly excessive in this case if you ask me, sand it as best you can with 180ish... epoxy and prime or use a good DTM primer and be done with it.... Rust Defender is a great product but has a huge build... in some cases excessive film build isn't really what you want.
 
Don't spray high build primer it will shrink into 80g..... You have two options now you can sand the scratches out with 80g on a DA or 120+ by hand or you can fill with thinned bondo (the good stuff ($40-$50 a can) or puddy coat (more $) just not the cheap stuff, it shrinks)

After you have the scratches out do the normal low build primer then sand - seal with thinned epoxy - (base - clear) or singe stage.

Don't forget to treat any rust pitted areas with either media blasting and/or metal etch before you fill them.

Yes I know I am just someone else on the internet giving advise I just happen to have done restoration work for the past 5 years. (A before and after of the work I do, yes I know the second doesn't show the corner but it does show where the compression buckle was)
 

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