Just a little miffed...

So heres my main questions:
1. total advance does NOT include vacuum?
A: When you read about total timing in terms of full throttle you are always referring to the initial timing, plus the mechanical timing. That's because at full throttle (with ported or manifold source), and at idle (with ported source), there is no vacuum advance present. There's no vacuum signal. Now in terms of engine diagnostics, total can include the vacuum advance amount because at light throttle it is present regardless of the vacuum source.
2. Is the advance at idle, static of 13 plus vacuum advance of 23 degrees for 36 at idle acceptable?
Aceptable is all up to you. Technically, if it starts, and it doesnt ping, it's usable. But some want it better than "usable", and some want it better for more throttle positions than idle and full throttle. I'm one of the latter. I would not use the vacuum can to try and make the idle better - which is what you're doing. It's not designed or intended to do what you want it to, and because of that, I believe it's costing you performance and overall satisfaction - enough that you posted about it.
3. cruising down the road, doing 65-70, im winging 3000 rpm. now my timing then, static 13, plus full mechanical advance 24, PLUS vacuum advance 23 (i have an old school "motor minder" gauge thats fairly accurate, 16-17 in lbs of vac cruising), will put my timing at approx 60 degrees btdc under light load. IS THIS BAD?!
From what ive read in books, the net, (including the article demon 408 posted, and I re-posted) this seems like a huge twilight zone that doesnt have a solid answer, some say yes, some say no
Here's the problems as I see them:
1. Your advance comes in fairly slow if it moves 24° over 1900rpm. Your engine is very mild and has a strong idle vacuum and smooth idle. It's made for torque.
2. You're normal cruise rpm window would be say, 2200-3K. If that's the case (stock convertor, mild gearing, around town type driving) you need to get the mechanical in earlier and faster.

What I'd set it up as is this:
Idle speed - 650-700rpm.
Initial advance - 15° BTDC
Mechancical advance - 24°; Use (1) aftermarket "light" spring and the lighter factory spring. The goal is the initial to start advancing around 1300 and be all in by 2K. That might take some doing in terms of experimenting with removing weight from the weights, and matching springs. You may end up with (2) aftermarket light springs. I've found Mallory advance spring assortments to be a great source of other tension advance springs to tailor the curve.
Vacuum advance - plugged into ported source, and adjusted to the lightest preload - this may also need to be tuned after things are set - and it should be adjustable through the nipple the hose goes on.