beef up leaf springs???

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dustoff440

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need something that will work behind a mild 360 magnum with a 150 shot of NOS

to save money I really want to have the ones I have (stock 5 leaf v8 on an 8 3/4) reworked or beefed up as they are brand new (came with the car)

couldn't I just have an extra fat new leaf added???

ideas or suggestions, the cheaper the better
 
need something that will work behind a mild 360 magnum with a 150 shot of NOS

to save money I really want to have the ones I have (stock 5 leaf v8 on an 8 3/4) reworked or beefed up as they are brand new (came with the car)

couldn't I just have an extra fat new leaf added???

ideas or suggestions, the cheaper the better

I'd focus on stiffening the front half and let the back half work, kinda like a superstock spring, but without the added height...Just a opinion.
 
I'd focus on stiffening the front half and let the back half work, kinda like a superstock spring, but without the added height...Just a opinion.

I had thought about clamping just the front leaves only......and trying that on some 7 inch street slicks
 
I had thought about clamping just the front leaves only......and trying that on some 7 inch street slicks

Of the inexpensive ways i can think of with them already installed, clamping as you said is one. Clamping some bar stock to the front half is another. If the're yet to be installed, a spring shop may be able to rearrange some of the existing leafs for a more forward bias.

Not sure if you want to spray out of the hole? The tires themselves may limit that. Being new springs, you may want to just run it as is and get some 60' times and see how she acts. Keep in mind that shocks and front end rise, or lack of, will also play a role.

Trying to give you a bump for some more responses :D.
 
X2 with Rick,on stiffening the stock springs.You might think about an adjustable pinion snubber.Also,check the length of your shocks.Jack the car up,use jackstands.Remove the lower shock nut.Let the spring drop,rear tire must not touch the ground.Match your fully extended shock,to the shock mount on the spring.If you don't have at least 1 to 1.5" extension past the bottom mount,you need a longer extension shock.Installed,the longer shock,preloads the tire harder on the launch surface.Sorry for the essay.I know 70/71 Imperial shocks work on S/S springs.Your best reference point,Monroe catalog,measure the extension points on the extended shock mounts.
 
X2 with Rick,on stiffening the stock springs.You might think about an adjustable pinion snubber.Also,check the length of your shocks.Jack the car up,use jackstands.Remove the lower shock nut.Let the spring drop,rear tire must not touch the ground.Match your fully extended shock,to the shock mount on the spring.If you don't have at least 1 to 1.5" extension past the bottom mount,you need a longer extension shock.Installed,the longer shock,preloads the tire harder on the launch surface.Sorry for the essay.I know 70/71 Imperial shocks work on S/S springs.Your best reference point,Monroe catalog,measure the extension points on the extended shock mounts.
What they all said, with BIG emphasis on the pinion snubber... Mann with a correctly adjusted snubber,, all the weight goes to the rear,,, transfers weight dirrctly to the diff via the snubber.. instant hook up, compared to without.. Cheapest way to gain grip.. try it.. you'll like it,.. then go from there,.. my .02..

( be careful how much weight you have in the back seat,, or trunk weight..) when cruising.. it's still good ...
 
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