Anyone know Holley Commander 950's? programming?

I have had a 2 bbl Pro-jection system on my Newport 383 since 1996. I have used both the analog box and the 2D box you show, the "round-top" injectors and newer "flat-top" that Bill USN-1 mentions that have the Delphi injectors (better and more common). I have several systems, since I might put Pro-jection on my Dart 273. I even got a new upgrade pod w/ flat-tops that Bill mentions, for ~$50 on ebay. The 2 new injectors were worth that.

It worked OK for years with the analog box and O2 feedback, but I always kept the knobs in close reach. If the O2 LED stopped flashing, I knew it would start quirking up and had to tweak it back. The main problem is it doesn't have enough sensors, particularly no MAP sensor. For wild-cam race engine where you don't care about idle, it is probably OK. They can't use MAP anyway since poor vaccum. With no IAT, it needs teaking from cold mornings to sunny afternoons. Jeep people love them because no tilting fuel bowl and can easily tweak for high altitude, though they do note the quirks.

Their wiring harness is a mess IMHO. You don't need 16 awg wire for TPS and coolant sensors. You have to cut a big hole in the firewall. One wire pulled out of their stupid crimped connector and disabled me one morning. I swapped in the 2D system to get to work. The original MSD box w/ Weatherpack connectors is more rugged. The 2D box seems quirkier. Twice it went way rich and blew open my muffler, at the exact same spot on the highway near road construction (stray radio signal?). Its only virtures are less clutzy O2 hookup and smaller size. It gets real hot if sunlight hits it and then runs lean. Why didn't they put an O2 LED on the 2D box so you don't "fly blind"?

Re your fuel pressure control, did you plumb a return line to the tank? If not, the regulator can't work, since a bypass design. I also ran for years on a Holley radial vane pump (blue). I put in the stronger bypass spring kit to run 20 psi. I failed several Holley gear-rotor pumps (you show) early on, but from trying an upstream pusher pump and other bright ideas. I replaced the radial pump when the body started leaking (porous casting?). I now have the gear-rotor pump low in the engine bay and no problems for years. Ignore Holley's instructions on having to mount the pump near the tank. Hard to get to and it makes a racket behind the rear seat.

You should have gone junkyarding for the HEI setup. A GM cable runs from module to their coil (use that). Snip the computer input cable and coil pickup connector and you are done for ~$15. Grab the knock sensor and module while in there. It screws in your drain plug just like the SBC and has a single 5 V "knock" output. Commander 950 can use that or just light an LED warning.

I was just bidding on another Commander 950 MPFI setup on ebay, but dropped out at $380 and it sold for $405, which was still a good price. I might need one for my slant. You got a great deal at $400 since yours has the throttle body included. They usually sell for $600, but since more "latest/greatest" stuff from Holley us bottom feeders can move up.