Upgrading a Fairly Stock Suspension

I agree with all that suggested rebuilding what you have now, all bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends, idler and pitman arm as needed, and get the front end tight first, then upgrade torsion bars, rear springs, and shocks at the same time. These two steps will vastly improve handling, and steering response.

Final tightening up will come with installing subframe connectors, and front anti sway bar (anything but Addco). Rear anti sway bars on A Bodies if not sized correctly can make these cars prone to easy over steer, so hold off until you can assess all your work for a few thousand miles before getting one.

After all those items have been installed, have steering gear rebuilt to stage II or III if yours is worn out.

The above is the level my 67 Dart ragtop is at with a stage II gear and 0.940” torsion bars. It corners flat, responds very well to steering impute, is not over boosted twitchy, and hands & rides like a modern car. Also I rebuilt the Dart’s manual KH disk brakes, and rear 10” drum on an 8 3/4th rear, that cars stops real good with good pedal feel. I used a later model master cylinder # MC36338 (71 & up disk/drum, 15/16” bore), it has a larger fluid capacity than a year correct stock unit.

This repair/upgrade as a big outlay, but the increased level of safety and handling is well worth the time and money spent. Your car will be a pleasure to drive once suspension and brakes are up to snuff.

The fourteen inch wheels will be fine for now, remember these 67-69 cars don’t have a lot of room in their wheel.

Rock Auto is your friend for KH calipers, bushings, and hard parts such as ball joints. Don’t go cheap with hard parts, or you will soon replacing them.