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'66Dart

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I have fuel and spark but no fire on the /6. Ran fine the day before, what else can i check for?
 
What year? make? and model? What ignition system? Where did you check for spark at coil or at plug? Does the choke work properly when set?

A car gasoline engine only needs 3 things to run: fuel, compression, and spark (at the proper time).
 
'66 dart 270, 225 /6. points ingnition

I checked the spark first with a timing light clamped on each of the six wires. I also ran each one through an in line spark tester.

I put on a new coil, a new ballast resistor and even tried a new volts regulator.

I pulled one plug and checked for compresion (thumb over the hole, don't have a compresion tester) and felt pritty strong.

I don't think its timing cause it ran perfect the day before and nothing was touched. All vacuum lines look good and are connected.

tried priming it myself with fuel but nothing

Running out of Ideas.
 
Confirm the timing.

Pull the #1 spark plug, bring the crank around to get to top dead center on compression,
see timing mark, pull the distributer cap and check that the rotor is pointed to the #1 lug on the cap.

If not, the cam timing has slipped at the timing chain or the dist. gear has stripped.

If none of the above, inspect the cap and rotor for carbon tracks or cracks.
 
Well i got her started after a full tune up and timing adjustment but noticed that I can manually turn the rotor/shaft with ease under the cap, is something stripped? And where?
 
Offhand, I'd say you broke the plastic distributor drive gear

But YOU sir, are one lucky SOB. That's because you have a 66 and you can download a free shop manual here:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=132309&highlight=manual,+download

Der linky

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/servicemanuals/1966_Plymouth_Service_Manual.zip

You do have to play with the page numbers, as the numbers in the reader do not follow the Mopar "dash" numbering system

Electrics, section 8 is page 189 in your viewer

/6 Distributor page 229
 

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...............the rotor is supposed to turn back and forth,the springs pull it back to the base setting, thats how u get centrifugal advance..........kim.....
 
...............the rotor is supposed to turn back and forth,the springs pull it back to the base setting, thats how u get centrifugal advance..........kim.....

Good point. You should be able to "spring" the rotor against the mechanical advance spring, and it should "snap" back when you release it. This of course is just a fraction of a turn.

The OP said "freely." I assumed he meant he could turn it more than one full turn
 
Yup, it was the drive gear, looks like it had a roll pin in there but its prob laying at the bottom of my pan.

Plastic gear intact but a little egg shapped as well as the shaft hole.

Looks like a new dist. is needed. And drop he pan to look for that pin.
 
And it's alive! Just tinker with the timing and we're good. Still don't see a thank button (maybe cause I'm on my phone) but thanks to everyone who posted.
 

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Sounds like you got a new distributor already. I would have said that if you do that, get an electronic one and use a GM HEI module (many posts). Otherwise, you can change just the plastic gear (~$5).
 
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