Here's a slightly different perspective...
For a street car that's regularly driven (not just to cruise nights or on Sundays, or trailered to autocrosses and track days), I think your first step to good handling and stability is to control body roll and optimize front end geometry (alignment specs). Super-stiff springs are not absolutely necessary.
I run my car on long-distance vintage rallies, like the California Melee and the Motherlode 400. These run exclusively on back roads, many of which are twisty, steep and have all kinds of surface conditions (including gravel and washboard) so while braking and handling is very important, suspension compliance is equally crucial. So I prefer stiff anti-roll bars and softer springs -- that gives you control when you need it without the bone-jarring ride. The purpose of the suspension is to keep all 4 wheels in contact with the pavement -- every time you bounce a wheel off the ground, you lose 25% of your grip right there. We aren't trying to rack up huge skid pad numbers here -- we are trying to have fun and remain in control. And not spend too much money, either.
So I have factory big-block t-bars (.890) on my 273 Barracuda, factory HD rear springs, KYB shocks, 1.125" front sway bar with poly bracket bushings and custom endlinks with Heim joints (no endlink bushings, to eliminate delayed response), 3/4" rear sway bar with poly bushings, K-H brakes with slotted cross-drilled rotors and ceramic pads, 8.75 SG rear with stock drums. Also a reinforced K-frame, Moog offset bushings and improved strut rod bushings, 14" rallys with Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 215/70-14s (great tire, but sadly no longer available). My swaybars are actually Addco from JC Whitney, with the bushings, brackets and endlinks gradually upgraded over time.
I respect Steve's knowledge and agree with his advice. I just wanted to point out that my 273 car ran with his 340 car lap after lap at Willow Springs on Spring Fling Track Day. I'm sure his set-up would ultimately be quicker if everything was sorted out (and I have no illusions about my car being fit for autocrossing). But I thought I would speak up in favor of a "real world"-oriented low-budget approach. I think we both agree that there is no need to immediately go out and drop a grand on aftermarket goodies.
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