rear end choices?

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swinger74

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Hello,

So i'm wondering what rear end would be best for my 74 dart. I currently have an 8 1/4 that im sure wont last behind a 383/833. would a 8.8 hold up? The 383 is stock currently but am planning a 451 after i have the car up and running. 8 3/4's are almost impossible to find and expensive when you find them around here. Any other options out there?

Ryan
 
if you plan to go with a stroked big block and a 4 speed then i would go straight to the dana and never look back. its the shock load that kills them. the dana is nearly bullet proof.
 
so on a dana i would have to find one and get it cut down correct?
 
I prefer a nice thin one on a girl about 5 foot 6 for the car an 8.8 will more than likely break under high torgue. Years ago I ran demolition derby and we threw out the 8.8 because they break shafts real easy.
 
Use one of these. It wouldn't matter how fast you go the other guy would be too busy looking at it to drive.:D
398612_3b5e6be9-4e78-4e0c-93ac-0bea86d57c6e_prod.jpg


I know there's always one smart a$$ in every crowd.
 
One option is a Lincoln Versailles/ Monarch/ Granada, don't know about "all" Grandadas but some of the Monarchs and the Versailles came with a Ferd 9" and it will bolt in with NO modifications except maybe wedge shims to change the pinion angle. The Versailles had factory rear disks, but finding parts for em is a little iffy.

The axle is a LITTLE wider, can be taken car of with wheel offset. The Ferd perches are I think 1/4" per side wider, bolts right in there.

Precision, others, makes a Mopar -- Ferd conversion U joint.
 
where exactly is "here" ?
i seen a 8.73 in craigslist here in MI
 
where exactly is "here" ?
i seen a 8.73 in craigslist here in MI


I am in Spokane WA. Been looking on craigslist/FABO/moparts for the last few weeks for a local one but only have found a bare housing
 
I am in Spokane WA. Been looking on craigslist/FABO/moparts for the last few weeks for a local one but only have found a bare housing


pm me. i have a buddy that narrows housings. he owns Alki Auto body in seattle and has been a welder for Chicago bridge and iron for over 35 yrs. he has several a-body housings ready to go. big and small bolt pattern. he also has a couple dana's that are cut to abody length.
 
pm me. i have a buddy that narrows housings. he owns Alki Auto body in seattle and has been a welder for Chicago bridge and iron for over 35 yrs. he has several a-body housings ready to go. big and small bolt pattern. he also has a couple dana's that are cut to abody length.

What is a price on A Body Dana?
 
Wow this is interesting to see the answers you're getting. As I am having the same debacle. An 8.75 for an Abody is financially out of the question. 8.75' are out there but by the time you get it narrowed and get a sure-grip in it, where's the value? The guy with the Granada answer was interesting, but they are actually only 8" rears... Again expensive but stronger than or equal to a Dana is the 1/2 ton truck 9.25. axle tubes and five lug axles are available to create your own. I am considering the 8.8 like you are, but I am thinking Ford 8.8. They are everywhere and cheap, good for lots of power, parts are cheap, they are within (less than) 2 inches in width for an Abody, and can be swapped to tons of junkyard bolt on disc brakes (i.e. lincoln mk, versailles, explorer, etc)., and most came with the ford posi type unit. You do have to get Explorer axles in it so it has 5 lug instead of four, but these are available in the 'yard too.
 
The guy with the Granada answer was interesting, but they are actually only 8" rears... .

No this IS a 9". Lincoln Versailles. I've been told SOME of the Granadas got the same axle, but with drum brakes.

According to this site they were a "mixed bag:"

This is a good read:


http://www.ultrastang.com/info1.php

Partial quote:

"The 1975-1980 model Granadas and Mercury Monarchs came equipped mostly with 8-inch rear ends. Some were also equipped with an 8.7-inch rear end --identifiable by a removeable rear cover (not desirable). Some models also had drum brake equipped 9-inch rear ends while a few had the optional 9-inch rear ends with factory-instastalled disk brakes.

The 1977-1980 Lincoln Versailles came standard with the 9-inch disk brake rear end. However, there are only four ratios to be had with any of these rear ends. They are: 2.47:1, 2.50:1, 2.75:1 & 3.00:1. Good for gas mileage purposes, but not good from a performance stand-point. Most of these 9-inch 3rd members came as a Conventional (single track) 3rd member. Some had two pinion (spider gears) Traction-Lok differentials, while some had the stronger four pinion Traction-Lok differentials."
 
I digress and gave thanks where it was due. However, this does little to change the pricing and availability of good rearends we can actually FIND and use. The 8.8, not sure on the exact years, but in the neighborhood of 79/82 thru 94/97 (lots of years) are out there, accept the versailles/explorer brakes, were the right width (close), and had lockers (most)...for most of us, whether we admit it or not, cheap is the key. I wish I could afford to be a purist...but no way. so at the end of the day, what is the cheapest bang-for-the-buck? I dont know the answer. And especially to '73', I was not trying to degrade you and your info...just gotta go with what ya know...and again thanks for clarifying for me.
 
Use one of these. It wouldn't matter how fast you go the other guy would be too busy looking at it to drive.:D
398612_3b5e6be9-4e78-4e0c-93ac-0bea86d57c6e_prod.jpg


I know there's always one smart a$$ in every crowd.

Was waitin for this. lol X's 2
 

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You may be surprised to find that some of the rear ends mentioned in this thread would be just as hard to find (if not harder) than a mopar A-Body 8.75.......more expensive too.
I bought a bare A-Body 8.75 housing last year for $200. new axles for $300 from Dr Diff, and a 3.55 carrier for 250. You would pay a LOT more for a Dana cut down.

I would run the 8.25 for a while....
 
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