Harmonic Balancer Installation Tool

-
Sinister.

Sinister.

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2008
Messages
351
Reaction score
1
Location
Kansas
What is everybody using to install their harmonic balancers? My kit wont work since the threads are so deep in the crack
 
I always used a hammer and a block of wood.

Few light taps and then you could get the bolt started and pull it the rest of the way in.

Is the Gen III hemi so different that this method wouldn't work?

Regards,

Joe Dokes
 
I've just got concerns about the thrust bearing and the threads are a little bit beat up so I want full engagement of whatever i use to pull the balancer on.

I'm leaning towards all thread or a long bolt that I can cut the head off of and tap the shank.
 
No, use a Lisle (funky one off tool brand found at Auto zone I think) Balancer puller, it has the same thread as the Mopar balancer bolt so all you need to do is buy a big washer and a fine thread nut. thread nut onto screw and run it up toward the 5/8 shank (or opposite if it allows) and then throw the fender washer on it, grease and slip the balancer on the snout and thread this bad boy in as far as it will hand thread. Then you can start turning the nut and itll draw the balancer onto the crankshaft. I looked at mine and said, "no way is that the same thread..." but it was! Check yours as the design may have changed...http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?product=277&division=1&category=24

This even worked on a cold CAT damper and these NEVER go on easily! Even "out of the boiling water" method...
 
I ended up tossing my damper in the oven at 200 (I think) for maybe 20 minutes or so. I used an infrared temp gun to make sure it didn't get too hot to screw up the rubber. Then I got some oven gloves, a hammer, and a block of wood. I quickly took it out of the oven, seated it on the crank, and gave it a good whack or two with the hammer on the wood to get it started. Then I just used the crank bolt to pull it down. It was warm enough that it drew down pretty easy with an impact gun and didn't seem to fight too much. Not sure how much difference the heat made in the long run, but it seemed to go on easy enough.
 
Buy the correct tool. I did many many ballancers with a block of wood and a hammer, while doing cam swaps. Because I was too cheap to spend $60 on the tool. Then I carry on business as usual and stripped all the threads out of a crank. It ended up costing me about $300 to fix my mistake, on a car that I get paid $800. It really eats into your profit when your buying everything to devils a motor, vs buying the tool.

https://millerspecialtools.spx.com/Detail.aspx?id=1783

And another nice tool to have, makes installing rocker arms a breeze.
https://millerspecialtools.spx.com/Detail.aspx?id=766
 
I have a PRW 1200100...bought it a few years ago...did a google and it does not show up any more....works really nice...
 
Don't use all-thread. It is made to work on all types of thread tolerances and therefore will not fit very well on anything. At least buy a few different lengths of grade 5 or grade 8 bolts to pull it on with so you get a good thread fit. But, your best bet is getting the right tool for the job and Not improvising.
 
I just did this less than a week ago. i went to the local nut/bolt store (tacoma screw) and picked up a chunk of 3/4 NF hardened steel with a grade 8 tall nut. just put a little grease on the crank snout and slid her on. use my 1/2 drive ratchet and she went on like butter. only cost me 20 bucks.
 
younggun2.0 said:
I just did this less than a week ago. i went to the local nut/bolt store (tacoma screw) and picked up a chunk of 3/4 NF hardened steel with a grade 8 tall nut. just put a little grease on the crank snout and slid her on. use my 1/2 drive ratchet and she went on like butter. only cost me 20 bucks.
Click to expand...

5.7 or 6.1?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top