easy way to tell if i got a solid cam or hydraulic?

every m.p. solid cam kit i have installed have had the exact same lifters with the yellow tops... that tells me you probably have a purple shaft cam and the lash should be .028 intake and .032 exhaust... just thought i'd throw that in...

Unfortunately, I have no idea what cam/lifters are in the motor since it was assembled when I bought it. I know that when I adjusted the valves a couple of days ago, the driver's side cylinder head was making a loud ticking noise. I had a few car buddies (who have solid cams) listen to it and they said that it definitely wasn't right (too loud of a tick). I pulled the valve covers and checked the lash per the manual, and one of the adjusters had backed out (#3, exhaust) and the lash was about 0.026". I adjusted it back to 0.018" and it sounded perfect. I know that it is not right to tune a car by sound, but I would rather go with my instincts here since I don't know what parts are actually in the motor.

With the motor at ~1,200 RPM, it sounds exactly like a sewing machine, which I've been told is the sound to look for with a properly set valve lash on a mechanical cam setup.

Food for thought regarding lash... Less is not always more!!! Running the lash significantly tighter than the recommended setting can cause problems. First, metal expands when heated and parts like valves tend to "grow" when the get hot, especially at full throttle. I have always preferred to set mechanical valve trains "hot". That is, with the engine up to operating temperature, for a more accurate setting. This is while "cold" settings tend to be looser by a couple thousandths. Even so, the lash will tighten when the engine is running. Second, the valve train must go slack, or unload each cycle. This is important for oiling and cooling. The lifter pressure must release to allow a fresh film of oil between the lifter face and cam lobe. The lower anti-scuff additive (zddp) levels in current oils make them less forgiving of hard metal-to-metal contact, so it's best to ensure the oil film is maintained. Also, while the valve stem has a big spring to act as a radiator, the valve head relies on seat contact for cooling. That 400 degree exhaust valve doesn't have a lot of time to dump heat into the 200 degree head at high RPM, so positive contact is crucial.

In a worse case scenario, too tight lash will cause the valve train to "go solid" and prevent the valve from closing all the way. While the compression loss will cost some power, the big worry is valve overheating. The valve gets hot, expands, and loses seat contact causing the valve to get hotter, expand more, and lose more seat contact. Hot exhaust gasses passing by on the seat will cause this to snowball. If the valve gets too hot it may overheat and be damaged by warping. If the stem overheats and sticks in the guide, piston contact will really warp (bend) the valve causing permanent damage.

Some will claim that lash can be used as a "tuning" tool. Sure, increasing or decreasing the lash will reduce or increase effective duration, if only slightly. It's no way to make one cam act like another. The bigger picture is to make sure there is adequate lash to prevent valve float at high RPM. The cam grinder will give a conservative lash recommendation to prevent this. Can you run tighter lash? Depending on spring pressure, valve train weight and flex, RPM and other things, probably. That's what "test and tune" runs are for.

Noise is a fact of life with mechanical cams. Aluminum valve covers will block it some, but don't risk the health of the engine to make it "quiet". Any hot rodder who knows anything will respect the even ticking of a well adjusted mechanical. And we all know chicks dig a nice solid stick, so don't pass on a chance to show off old school.

You definitely made a lot of good points here. I did check/set the valve lash cold, but I made sure that all of the rocker arms fully released from the valve stems to allow oil on them. I've also run the motor with the valve covers off an verified that oil is making its way to all of the valves stems.

As mentioned above, I am checking my results mostly based on sound (unfortunately). The motors still clicks noticeably when cold, but when fully heated up (and after a few 6K RPM pulls) the motor sounds like a typewriter/sewing machine.

I think I am on the right track, but I will definitely be keeping a close eye on the rocker arms/valve lash. Overall though, I think my next step is a rev limiter. This thing winds up FAST lol

-Mike