Electrical gremlin. Dart won't start. Desperately seeking insight!

I would bet money on.................

poor connections in the bulkhead connector TOP of the list

MAYBE bad connections at the ignition switch connector second

Bad ignition switch next

Last is something like bad connections at the ammeter, or more rare a failed "in harness splice."

Read the MAD article I posted earlier for the hows and whys of this kind of trouble.

The circuit path for "ignition run" and there can be trouble ANYWHERE along the way AS WELL AS multiple problems

From the battery, -- fuse link -- bulkhead connector -- (big red main feed) -- to ammeter -- through ammeter -- to "in harness splice" -- (welded splice in the black ammeter lead, refer to the MAD article) -- to the ignition switch connector -- through the switch -- back out the switch connector (now on the "ignition run" dark blue wire) back through the bulkhead connector -- to the ignition and other points

On a 72, the minimum that the dark blue supplies is..............

cluster power to the gauges for warning lights and gauges,

out the bulkhead...............

supplies "ignition run" to the "switch" side of the ballast

field voltage to the alternator (light blue wire to field)

voltage to the voltage regulator IGN terminal

electric choke if used

Distributor retard, idle solenoid, and maybe another smog doo dad on some cars

This is EASY to check out. Turn the key to run, engine off. Check voltage at the blue field terminal of the alternator by "back probing" the field terminal as it's hooked up. Put your other probe on the battery positive post. You are hoping here for a very LOW voltage, the lower the better. Anything over .3V means you have a harness drop problem in the circuit path I outlined above.

Now just backtrack. Compare readings where the blue ign run comes out of the firewall, and the red in--feed.

Go inside the car and check at the ignition switch connector. If it's OK, but the readings on the engine side of the firewall are not, next get "down there" and backprobe the bulkhead connector. If it's "bad" (example) on the engine side of the dark blue wire, but the INSIDE of the bulkhead showls OK, then you know it's right there in the connector.