Gauge cluster questions

Yup Remove the bolts in the floor plate, one bolt way up in on a bracket in the middle, and last, the two nuts on the "obvious" studs on the outer clamp. Of course this is after you remove the small trim panel. You might have to turn the wheel as much as 1/4 turn to get the coupler in position so that it will "flex" and the thing should drop down to the seat.

Pull the cluster screws, of course unhook the battery, and unhook the speedo, and gently "hinge" the cluster out and down. Some cars don't have much wiring "flex" so you might not get it far out before you have to unhook the two harness connectors and the ammeter

Now is an EXCELLENT time to really go through the dash. Inspect and repair the cluster connector pins.

On my own 67, I abandoned the original connectors, and went to a pair of Molex style plugs. The temp/ fuel gauge stud nuts were corroded and not making contact, so loosen/ tighten/ loosen the nuts, and better yet, replace them with real nuts.

On mine, the brass contacts that form the "socket" for the instrument voltage limiter were not making contact with the PC board. I had to solder short jumpers across from the contacts to the board.

Make sure you clean up around the lamp sockets, replace the bulbs, and examine/ repair/ replace the sockets. Bend the fingers for better contact on the lamp sockets

Also install a ground wire and jumper to the two boards, leave about a 1 ft pigtail and attach with a nut/ screw and a star washer to someplace such as the column support bracket for a better ground.

Now would be a GREAT time to replace the gauge VR with a solid state one.

Also have you seen this thead? It's an EASY afternoon project to adapt a Sunpro voltmeter in place of your ammeter, and cal. the reading so that 14V is the center of the scale!!!

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=119480&highlight=ammeter+conversion


'S all I can think of for now.