Leak fix around wipers

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EmersonC

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Oh so many things to fix....

So it is time to tackle the leaks. Up first is the drip over my left foot. You know... That one that drips from somewhere above the fuse box. Not to east to see up there but Igor some ideas. I hear a lot that water like to slip by the wiper blade pivots. But I don't see many ideas on how to fix this. I have seen aftermarket parts that are "leakprook" but I do t want to spend the money or change out all that. So any ideas? And remember a picture is worth a thousand words.:finga:
 
Google Mopar, "wiper pivot repair" or "wiper pivot rebuild"

[ame="http://www.google.com/search?num=20&hl=en&newwindow=1&safe=off&q=mopar%2C%20rebuild%20wiper%20pivots&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi&ei=RiGwUJzEAuGriALN9YHIAw&biw=1366&bih=647&sei=TyGwUJ72HYeYiAKNvYGQAQ"]mopar, rebuild wiper pivots - Google Search[/ame]

[ame="http://www.google.com/search?num=20&hl=en&newwindow=1&safe=off&q=mopar%2C%20rebuild%20wiper%20pivots&um=1&biw=1366&bih=647&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&tab=iw&ei=TyGwUNqdK--wigLy-IFw"]mopar, rebuild wiper pivots - Google Search[/ame]
 
The kits are cheap, and work well. I did it on my daily driver 65 Valiant, and I live on the 'wet' coast of BC, and they haven't leaked. A tip to getting the pivot seal to slide over the wiper pivot is to use dishsoap on a socket extension, and slide the seal over the small end of the extension. Then put the large end against the wiper pivot, and slide the seal over the large end of the extension, onto the wiper pivot. The dishsoap helps it all slide smoothly. Just be patient pushing the wiper pivot with new seal through the firewall/cowl area, it can tear. Once you do it to one, you'll want to do it to your other 20 Mopars..
 
Good replys. It was a combination of ultiple problems. The passanger side vent box had a 1" gap around the top letting cold air in. I fixed that with some foam insulator. The cowl darin on that side was clogged, and after a hour of cleaning it with compressed air, a metal coat hanger, and a water hose. it finally drains proper. Unfortunatly at the begining I clogged it worse and when I tested it out all of the water rushed into the car and there was about an inch of standing water on the passenger side. :banghead: I am going to buy the wiper pivot gaskets tomorrow and replace those. Hopefuly this will stop the leak on my foot.
 
I am going to buy the wiper pivot gaskets tomorrow and replace those. Hopefuly this will stop the leak on my foot.

And, also stop more corrosion forming in fuse holders. Once dry, check condition of fuse holders, repair as nessary to lessen any voltage drop, and source of excess heat in wire harness.
 
You want pictures?
Then this thread is for you:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=35796&highlight=seal

FABO member and good guy '74 Sport posted this complete how-to a while back. The only addition that I would make to his narrative is when drilling for the zerk fitting to apply a little grease to the drill bit. Doing so will capture all the metal filings making sure that you don't leave any behind. That right there was a tip provided to me by another good guy (and former FABO member) StrokerScamp...
C
 
And, also stop more corrosion forming in fuse holders. Once dry, check condition of fuse holders, repair as nessary to lessen any voltage drop, and source of excess heat in wire harness.

That is my hope! I can deal with water on the foot, no big deal. But having the fuse that controls my tail lights go put once a month is really starting to piss me off, plus I'm afraid someone will run onto my baby. I have unscrewed the fuse box a few times but it is very difficult to move it more than a few inches and nearly impossible to see where the wires connect. It is possible but I know it won't be much fun cleaning up that fuse box. I may just unplug everything clean up the conyact points replace any wie terminals as necessary. That way I know it is all good :cheers:
 
When I replaced the wiper seals in my 2 A's, I had the instrument cluster and accessories out, which makes it much easier. I installed grease fittings, but not the ones in the kit since my grease gun can't grab them.
 
This may help:
My ’67 Dart ragtop suffered from a badly corroded fuse holder, so I gutted it. Than bolted a modern cheap six spade type fuse holder on top of it, and transferred each wire from original block to new unit one at a time. It has been very reliable for four years now; also during this fuse block up date, I rehabbed the entire wiring harness with new bulkhead connector, and just about every brass connector in car has been replaced.
100_0647-1.jpg
 
Just got the pivots out and to my suprise (though I really should not be that suprised) there were NO seals at all. Not even the old dried remains, nothing.
Its a good thing I decided to do this. Next I need to reinstall which should not be that bad. Hopefully the car will no longer be leaking. :cheers::cheers::cheers:
 
Got it all back together. For any one that is going to do this in the future be aware it may take you a while. Easy to get all things off and put the new seal on the pivot, but installing it is a b**ch! Its hard to get the seals through the hole under the cowl. I finally gave up and had the roomate help. He pushed the pivot from underneath the dash and I took a screw driver from the outside of the car and helped ease the seal up and into position. It is doable, but not much fun especially when its 50 and raining.
 
Was actually gonna try a qk fix I read about (I think in here) until I have time to do it right. Said to take off wiper arm. Cut a round section of an inner tube, cut a small hole in center and squeeze it over the wiper pivot. Then feed the rest of the tube under the cowl. Temporary fix to keep water from entering? Has anybody tried this with any success?
 
The spongy rubber donut isn't supposed to be outside the car/cowl panel. All that should be seen from outside is a slightly domed surface from sheet metal to pivot post.
The hardware conpresses the foam as the pivot is drawn up tight.
 
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