K-member question

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As far as I know the slant six k member is as strong as the V8. For added strength many people like to fully weld all the seams on the k member. It's not required but it's an easy upgrade if you have a welder.

If you are using this strictly for drag racing many people leave the stock slant six torsion bars in the car. For driving on the street I think you will like V8 torsion bars much better. The difference between torsion bars is the diameter with the slant six bars being a smaller diameter than the V8 bars. With that said there are several choices for V8 torsion bars, I should also mention that there are different lengths for different body styles so one needs to keep that in mind when looking for them.
 
Factory 340 K-Frames have an identity washer welded on the front
 
I've never noticed the washer on my 8/28/67 SPD GTS convertible (then again I really haven't worked on the car since I heard about this, but I will be tearing into the car again one of these days.

As for k-member strength, there is NO difference.
 
mopar79sean said:
As far as I know the slant six k member is as strong as the V8. For added strength many people like to fully weld all the seams on the k member. It's not required but it's an easy upgrade if you have a welder.

If you are using this strictly for drag racing many people leave the stock slant six torsion bars in the car. For driving on the street I think you will like V8 torsion bars much better. The difference between torsion bars is the diameter with the slant six bars being a smaller diameter than the V8 bars. With that said there are several choices for V8 torsion bars, I should also mention that there are different lengths for different body styles so one needs to keep that in mind when looking for them.
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i have absolutely no problems daily driving my slant bars with a v8. i dont even notice a diiference
 
Jim Lusk said:
I've never noticed the washer on my 8/28/67 SPD GTS convertible (then again I really haven't worked on the car since I heard about this, but I will be tearing into the car again one of these days.
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That is why I asked. Looked at a 69 and din't see it there. Just made me curious.
 
73AbodEE said:
i have absolutely no problems daily driving my slant bars with a v8. i dont even notice a diiference
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Then, in my opinion, you have no idea what a good handling car feels like. I wouldn't drive a slanty A-body without .870" T-bars and a front sway bar with heavier rear springs and good shocks.
 
Then, in my opinion, you have no idea what a good handling car feels like. I wouldn't drive a slanty A-body without .870" T-bars and a front sway bar with heavier rear springs and good shocks
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2X times 10 to the second power...

My 2 cent short story:
My Dart was a former drag queen having campaigned four years or so at English Town, NJ and was purpose built with /6 bar on driver’s side, and V8 bar on right side. I did not discover this redesign for several months, while experiencing weird unpredictable handling on the street after getting car back on road. It would corner sort of OK when turning left loading the stiffer right side bar, but a turn to the right produced a dangerous flopping wallowing poor handling mess in comparison.

Installing 0.940” bars, a 1 ¼” anti-sway bar, six lief factory ride height springs out back coupled together with sub-frame connectors and new bushings made the Dart handle like a modern car. No more keeling over onto the rockers in turns, no nose dive during hard braking, no more feelings as if car had a giant hinge behind front seat connecting two incompatible cars together, just flat predictable, composed neutral handling at all times.
 
you all are wrong. the 340 is different them the slant and the other small v8s. (other than the mounts) they are reinforced on the back side where the lower control are does throw. is it a big deal, probably not. but if i was going with big torsion bars, i would do the mod to reinforce it. just my 2 cents

this is on the 68 to 72 not sure one 73 and up. i would say they also have it
 
Jim Lusk said:
Then, in my opinion, you have no idea what a good handling car feels like. I wouldn't drive a slanty A-body without .870" T-bars and a front sway bar with heavier rear springs and good shocks.
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apparently you dont the cars i owned, driven and built ... that is merely just that....an opinion. unless you are trying to rallye around corners at excessive speeds, they work just fine. i know of a few slant 6 cars with A/C that came with thicker V8 torsion bars...
 
Just to point out since OP didn't list the model year. Pre-67 there was not a difference between a slant six and v-8 k member. So if your intent is a 340 into a 1964-1966 car you just need the motor mounts not the kmember.
 
One more point...the 67 K's have the single shear idler arm mount. If you have a choice, better to use a 68-72 K with the double shear mount. Stronger and the 68-72 idler arm is cheaper and easier to find. And yeah reinforce the lower control arm thru bolt area. If it hasn't cracked already, it probably will in the future.
 
I "parted out" a /6 with tow package, had disc brakes, 340 torsion bars, 83/4 3:23 sure grip and factory air
 
73AbodEE said:
apparently you dont the cars i owned, driven and built ... that is merely just that....an opinion. unless you are trying to rallye around corners at excessive speeds, they work just fine. i know of a few slant 6 cars with A/C that came with thicker V8 torsion bars...
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And you have never driven the cars that I have owned. I don't care whether the car will be autocrossed or not, I want it to handle well. My first A-body (66 Dart GT) did NOT have the handling package. My next A-body (66 Barracuda) DID have the handling package. After feeling the difference I NEVER drove another A-body very long before adding, at least 340 T-bars and front sway bar. It is a night and day difference. If you don't care, that's fine...
 
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