Torsion Bar Replacement

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Grasshopper

Grasshopper

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I have the original Torsion bars on my 71 Scamp w /6 motor. I am in the process of rebuilding the entire front end with a PST kit. The kit does not contain torsion bars. The car still sits well but I am wondering if I should replace. if yes what size should I use. It is a everyday street car.
 
Replacement should not be necessary unless you are putting in a V-8 or the existing bar is broken. Does the kit from PST contain lower control arm bushings? Hopefully it does. If you remove the t.b's be sure to put them back in correctly R to R and L to L.
C
 
Inspect the bars for any knicks, scratches, gouges or cracks. Even a knick in a torsion bar can cause a complete failure later down the road. If they look good, then go ahead and reuse them. No need for any expensive/special bars for a slant six car.
 
As mentioned,mark them bad boys,before you take them out.
I use a paint pen. Mark them with a right and a left. I also will put an arrow on them,for which side goes forward,or to the front of the car.

PS: Nice Scamp.
 
I would ditch them for a set of used 340 bars. Check the part #'s on your bars though because A/C slant and 318 got 340 bars. They should be relatively cheap and easy to find and will be worth the extra effort of locating and purchasing. (part # tells you left and right, front to back doesn't matter)
 
If you're happy with how the car sits and the bars are in good condition, then you can re-use the bars.

BUT. Your car will handle about 1 zillion times better if you buy a larger diameter set of torsion bars. :D

I understand they aren't always in the budget, but Ma Mopar really did do all of us a big disservice when she decided on the spring rates for the torsion bars. All of the musclecar era mopars are undersprung from the factory, even the /6 cars. A set of 1" bars from Just Suspension (less than $200!!!) will make your car handle MUCH better than it does now, with a ride that is still a long way from stiff. Even on a /6 car.

I have a set in my Duster. Stock lame shocks, 225/60/15's, no sway bars, and a 318. Still VERY compliant, but a lot less body roll than with the /6 and /6 bars, and much more predictable handling. I'll probably end up going 1.06" for torsion bars later down the road.

PST (site sponsor) also sells 1.03" bars for around $200. Money well spent in either case IMHO, even for a plain old /6 street driven car. They may be old cars, but they can be made to handle MUCH better with a few simple improvements.
 
72bluNblu said:
If you're happy with how the car sits and the bars are in good condition, then you can re-use the bars.

BUT. Your car will handle about 1 zillion times better if you buy a larger diameter set of torsion bars. :D

I understand they aren't always in the budget, but Ma Mopar really did do all of us a big disservice when she decided on the spring rates for the torsion bars. All of the musclecar era mopars are undersprung from the factory, even the /6 cars. A set of 1" bars from Just Suspension (less than $200!!!) will make your car handle MUCH better than it does now, with a ride that is still a long way from stiff. Even on a /6 car.

I have a set in my Duster. Stock lame shocks, 225/60/15's, no sway bars, and a 318. Still VERY compliant, but a lot less body roll than with the /6 and /6 bars, and much more predictable handling. I'll probably end up going 1.06" for torsion bars later down the road.

PST (site sponsor) also sells 1.03" bars for around $200. Money well spent in either case IMHO, even for a plain old /6 street driven car. They may be old cars, but they can be made to handle MUCH better with a few simple improvements.
Click to expand...

I agree!! I would never use anything less than the 1.0 inch bars. I have the 1.0 inch units in my 68 cuda...absolutely love it. rides great on the street. :)
 
I appreciate the advice. When I called PST they said that the 1.03 bars were rated for a 440 or 426 Hemi and though they would provide better handling would create a very stiff ride for my 225/6 Samp street car. They went on to say that it might be better to change the sway bar and strut rod bushings. I do want a nice ride as well and trust your advice more so than PST as we drive similar cars. All things considered what size bars should I use for my 225/6 street cat with a/c?
 
Grasshopper said:
I appreciate the advice. When I called PST they said that the 1.03 bars were rated for a 440 or 426 Hemi and though they would provide better handling would create a very stiff ride for my 225/6 Samp street car. They went on to say that it might be better to change the sway bar and strut rod bushings. I do want a nice ride as well and trust your advice more so than PST as we drive similar cars. All things considered what size bars should I use for my 225/6 street cat with a/c?
Click to expand...


Remember, it's not like the six is any lighter than a small block. They just got wimpy t-bars because the factory assumed the buyers were more interested in comfy ride than performance.

Personally, I think 1.03 is a bit much for an otherwise unmodified street car. You really would want HD rear springs and sway bars with that high a spring rate in front. .870 would be small block HD size, and .890 would be big block size.

I have .890 on my 273 car, which also has HD rear springs, f&r sway bars and KYB shocks. This is a well balanced package. I could probably have gone bigger, but my theory is stiff roll control and moderate springs is best for a daily driver/fun car. Stiff front springs, loose rear springs, and no roll control would not be a great combo, IMHO.
 
Grasshopper,
What is your "ultimate" goal for the car? You going to leave it as a /6 fun driver? Or are you going to eventually take it up a notch or two? Does it have a front sway bar now?
If you plan to leave it as a /6 and just have fun driving it, I say leave it alone. Upgrade with a sway bar if it doesn't have one now. If future plans are for upgrades, you can always upgrade then, or replace the bars now and be done with that part of it.
You will find that they aren't that difficult to replace. If you change engines you will probably need an alignment at that point again anyhow.
I definitely agree with what mvh said in his post regarding beefing up the front and not the rear.
C
 
Here's my opinion.
It's been my experiace there was no difference in size between what generally was in 6 cars and 318 cars. Check out the size before you do anything.
Did you say you have a sway bar front end?
If that is the case, I would recommend trying it first. I'm very please with my poly front ends in non-ac, manual brake and steering cars.
(Including the lower control arm poly bushing which tend to make some people nervous).
Changing the torsion bars at a later time would only involve an alignment at most since the you might not get the ride height back perfect and that would change things..
 
If your sticking with the leaning tower of power I would stay with the bars that you have now and just purchase a good set of shocks wheather it be a set of KYB or Bilsteins. Then down the line think about sway bars. But was is your plan for the car down the road? Big thing is to do your upgrades in the correct order so that you are going back and re-doing things.

Thanks
James From
PST Marketing
 
If your car originally had a/c then it most likely had .870 bars from new. Not a bad place to start, and torsion bars can easily changed later if you want something different. Here's how I would proceed:

First make sure the suspension is in good shape and all bushings, joints and linkages are tight and not bent. Sounds like you have a good handle on that.

Next would be a set of high pressure gas shocks. KYBs are a lot of bang for the buck, Bilsteins are a lot more bang for more bucks. KYBs tend to be valved a little stiff, but I've never found them objectionable. Bilsteins are more progressive and all around better.

Then, before you blow any cash on new torsion bars, add a front sway bar. This is the biggest improvement you'll make. Replacing the rears with OEM type HD springs will make a big difference too.

For a street driven car I would stop here. You'll have a smooth riding, nice handling car for not a lot of cash. Later on down the road if you want to take it to the next level, begin with the wheel/tire combo.
 
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