Yeah, I was marveling at that car last summer - shifts while in the air! As light as my front end is and judging from the lack of engine mounts which are replaced with the motor plate mounts (means a healthy big block, the hood scoop was a pro mod type) and nitrous bottle mount, I am surprised there were no 10.5 scrapes on the rear bumper. Must have had wheelie bars back then.
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=214911
That Duster is just about the same as what I am working with, even down to the cut away motor mounts that I need to run my SB. Notice that this one also probably does not have the snout bars running back into the interior. I suspect they end at the firewall since I do not see any loop on front. My snout bars will tie to the down bars like yours does and I will also add the extra down bar to the frame connector area like you did. One concern I have is are the frame rails straight now because when I tie the snout bar to the inside, and MAYBE add a Badart radiator support brace, the rails will stay where they are. Did you check yours first or just assume that since the inner fenders were there it was straight? Anyways look at that Duster and see where I am coming from and why I am so interested in your work. I do not have the stuff to take / post pics.
Mine still has steel fenders but otherwise all glass in front and pretty darn light with no engine / tranny / K frame. They cut the inner fenders at the top so much I may add an angle up there to better support the fenders. Balance point is about 8" behind the rear door jam with all the front stuff gone and the rear all assembled except for battery(s).
I have a very similar back half with ladder bars / coil overs except a back braced 8 3/4 as that Duster. What went into your decision of 4 point vs ladder bars which per the thread you were considering? Maybe we should start a ladder bar vs 4 link thread instead of jacking yours.
