My 6.1 retrofit thread
JD - I'll detail the issue with the milodon plate in a separate thread.
Here's part 1 of the cam install -
Performing a cam swap in a NEW Gen 3 CRATE Hemi is not hard –but there’s two important words in this statement….
They are NEW and in a CRATE.
What I mean by this is because its a crate motor, you can do this while the engine is out of the car – so that’s a big easy
Second – being new means the hyd roller lifters will do what they are supposed to do – and not interfere with the cam when it comes time to slide it out.
Lastly – be aware that this swap is being done with a mild cam where there will be no Piston to Valve clash to worry about – and no need to change valve springs or lifters. Also “degreeing” was done using the existing hyd roller lifter – so there are some small inaccuracies to be expected.
IMPORTANT - If you are unsure if there will be P-V issues, or you are running an old engine where the lifters may not “hang up” in the bores when you rotate the cam without pushrods…,then resign yourself to a “heads off” exercise.
So here we go:
1. – Remove the balancer (Damper) – relatively easy process with a three jaw puller – Inserted a 1/4” drive into the cam bolt socket to gve the centre rod of the puller something to work against..although any piece of rod or an undersized bolt will work.
2. – Remove the water transfer tubes – dead easy with one bolt, one nut per side and the end of the fitting into the front cover is O ringed press fit.
3. – Remove the front cover – the only trick with this is to not forget that some of the water pump bolts also secure the front cover to the block.
Also there is a 6mm stud toward the top of the cover (The smaller of two studs) – that also needs to be removed as it goes through to the block.
Removal of the front cover reveals the timing chain, cam trigger wheel and crank sprocket.
4. – So now we have to remove the valve gear so we can slide the cam out without interference – so off come the valve covers.
Undo the coil pack retaining screws (two per pack) and simply pull the coil packs off – the sheaths that slide over the plugs are covered in die-electric grease so they simply slide off the plugs.
5 - Then undo the valve cover studs and lift off the valve covers – these are also O ringed for your convenience!
6 - Before removing the rocker gear and shafts – be aware:
- The shaft bolt locaters that the bolts snug down on are NOT to be removed.
- The pushrods for the intake side and exhaust side are different lengths.
- The rocker gear must not be interchanged
NOTE: - The push rod holes are all on the engine side of the corresponding shafts
7 – Then we remove the plugs –
I’ve seen all sorts of ideas from people on how to lift the plugs once they are loosened – I simply used a magnetic probe and lifted them straight out of their tunnels.
8. – So we move back to the front of the engine –
- Pin back the timing chain tensioner as in the picture
- secure the crank from rotating and undo the Cam bolt
- Slide the cam trigger wheel off.
9. – You need a long bolt to insert into the cam shaft before removal – I found the discarded Main cap stud was the same thread – so used that.
Now we rotate the cam shaft a minimum two times and listen for the lifters to “hang up” in their bores – they make a kind on clicking sound as the locate.
You won’t know if they’ve all “located” until you start to remove the cam …so take it “slow and easy”.
10. – Be aware –Its done more by feel than any rules – slowly ease the cam out feeling for interference.
If you get to a point where the cam will simply not move (this will happen very early in the process) – you may have a lifter that has refused to "hang" (relocate) .
A magnetic probe down each push rod hole will tell you which is still too far “down the tunnel” – it will also assist in lifting it “out the way” an you may be able to continue the cam withdrawal.
If you have several “dropped” lifters – either buy a lot of probes and get a load of buddies to hold them - or remove the heads, centre plenum and do an “old school” cam change by removing the lifters.
Hopefully you’ve lucked out – all the lifters hung in their bores and the cam has now been removed!!
The cam tunnel - Note the lifter wheels all tucked up out the way.
Part two will deal with the install – however I don’t intend to detail the process of degreeing the cam – as its beyond my skill set. :)
JD - I'll detail the issue with the milodon plate in a separate thread.
Here's part 1 of the cam install -
Performing a cam swap in a NEW Gen 3 CRATE Hemi is not hard –but there’s two important words in this statement….
They are NEW and in a CRATE.
What I mean by this is because its a crate motor, you can do this while the engine is out of the car – so that’s a big easy
Second – being new means the hyd roller lifters will do what they are supposed to do – and not interfere with the cam when it comes time to slide it out.
Lastly – be aware that this swap is being done with a mild cam where there will be no Piston to Valve clash to worry about – and no need to change valve springs or lifters. Also “degreeing” was done using the existing hyd roller lifter – so there are some small inaccuracies to be expected.
IMPORTANT - If you are unsure if there will be P-V issues, or you are running an old engine where the lifters may not “hang up” in the bores when you rotate the cam without pushrods…,then resign yourself to a “heads off” exercise.
So here we go:
1. – Remove the balancer (Damper) – relatively easy process with a three jaw puller – Inserted a 1/4” drive into the cam bolt socket to gve the centre rod of the puller something to work against..although any piece of rod or an undersized bolt will work.
2. – Remove the water transfer tubes – dead easy with one bolt, one nut per side and the end of the fitting into the front cover is O ringed press fit.
3. – Remove the front cover – the only trick with this is to not forget that some of the water pump bolts also secure the front cover to the block.
Also there is a 6mm stud toward the top of the cover (The smaller of two studs) – that also needs to be removed as it goes through to the block.
Removal of the front cover reveals the timing chain, cam trigger wheel and crank sprocket.
4. – So now we have to remove the valve gear so we can slide the cam out without interference – so off come the valve covers.
Undo the coil pack retaining screws (two per pack) and simply pull the coil packs off – the sheaths that slide over the plugs are covered in die-electric grease so they simply slide off the plugs.
5 - Then undo the valve cover studs and lift off the valve covers – these are also O ringed for your convenience!
6 - Before removing the rocker gear and shafts – be aware:
- The shaft bolt locaters that the bolts snug down on are NOT to be removed.
- The pushrods for the intake side and exhaust side are different lengths.
- The rocker gear must not be interchanged
NOTE: - The push rod holes are all on the engine side of the corresponding shafts
7 – Then we remove the plugs –
I’ve seen all sorts of ideas from people on how to lift the plugs once they are loosened – I simply used a magnetic probe and lifted them straight out of their tunnels.
8. – So we move back to the front of the engine –
- Pin back the timing chain tensioner as in the picture
- secure the crank from rotating and undo the Cam bolt
- Slide the cam trigger wheel off.
9. – You need a long bolt to insert into the cam shaft before removal – I found the discarded Main cap stud was the same thread – so used that.
Now we rotate the cam shaft a minimum two times and listen for the lifters to “hang up” in their bores – they make a kind on clicking sound as the locate.
You won’t know if they’ve all “located” until you start to remove the cam …so take it “slow and easy”.
10. – Be aware –Its done more by feel than any rules – slowly ease the cam out feeling for interference.
If you get to a point where the cam will simply not move (this will happen very early in the process) – you may have a lifter that has refused to "hang" (relocate) .
A magnetic probe down each push rod hole will tell you which is still too far “down the tunnel” – it will also assist in lifting it “out the way” an you may be able to continue the cam withdrawal.
If you have several “dropped” lifters – either buy a lot of probes and get a load of buddies to hold them - or remove the heads, centre plenum and do an “old school” cam change by removing the lifters.
Hopefully you’ve lucked out – all the lifters hung in their bores and the cam has now been removed!!
The cam tunnel - Note the lifter wheels all tucked up out the way.
Part two will deal with the install – however I don’t intend to detail the process of degreeing the cam – as its beyond my skill set. :)
