Painless wire harness install (MORE PROGRESS)
Here's one way to do it:
The dotted vertical line represents the separation between trunk area and front area Shown here is for "non" one wire alternator as you have
"# huge" is your main cable going from starter back to trunk
"Factory" wire from starter to relay in your case only has to be no 10 IF you are only using the relay stud to operate the starter solenoid, larger if you use the relay for a junction for other circuits
Your alternator main output can connect either to the start relay stud or starter
I forgot to label the "continuous duty" solenoid to the right of the start relay.
The wire from the start relay stud to one of the main studs on the relay needs to be big enough to run whatever underhood switched loads you have. If all you have is to fire the small red for the MSD, then you can use a Bosch relay instead. The two big studs of the solenoid are the contacts.
The right hand stud of the solenoid (contact) then feeds the "small red" of your MSD, and could also feed the blue field of your alternator, as well as the regulator IGN terminal. Since you have a separate "exciter wire" in the Painless harness, this is not necessary.
The coil (small terminals) of the solenoid / relay are
on left "ignition switch ignition run" is power coming FROM the switch, IE your IGN1/ IGN2 together
The relay/ solenoid is then grounded through the disconnect small terminals, labeled "# 14 or 12"
The two large terminals of the disconnect breaks your battery positive cable.
It MIGHT be that this same effect can be had in the MSD, do they show a ground that can be lifted for security or kill switch? That is, if so, you could eliminate the solenoid/ relay.
On the other hand you if you use a solenoid and heavy enough wire to power the fed contact, you can also use the solenoid to break all switched loads, electric fans, water pump, fuel pump(s), etc.
If you do this, and only use a relay, you can undoubtedly hide the relay under the cowl with the starter relay
So the way this works, if EITHER the key or disconnect is off, the engine cannot possibly run. If the disconnect is pulled, there is NO power outside the trunk area
Here's one way to do it:
The dotted vertical line represents the separation between trunk area and front area Shown here is for "non" one wire alternator as you have
"# huge" is your main cable going from starter back to trunk
"Factory" wire from starter to relay in your case only has to be no 10 IF you are only using the relay stud to operate the starter solenoid, larger if you use the relay for a junction for other circuits
Your alternator main output can connect either to the start relay stud or starter
I forgot to label the "continuous duty" solenoid to the right of the start relay.
The wire from the start relay stud to one of the main studs on the relay needs to be big enough to run whatever underhood switched loads you have. If all you have is to fire the small red for the MSD, then you can use a Bosch relay instead. The two big studs of the solenoid are the contacts.
The right hand stud of the solenoid (contact) then feeds the "small red" of your MSD, and could also feed the blue field of your alternator, as well as the regulator IGN terminal. Since you have a separate "exciter wire" in the Painless harness, this is not necessary.
The coil (small terminals) of the solenoid / relay are
on left "ignition switch ignition run" is power coming FROM the switch, IE your IGN1/ IGN2 together
The relay/ solenoid is then grounded through the disconnect small terminals, labeled "# 14 or 12"
The two large terminals of the disconnect breaks your battery positive cable.
It MIGHT be that this same effect can be had in the MSD, do they show a ground that can be lifted for security or kill switch? That is, if so, you could eliminate the solenoid/ relay.
On the other hand you if you use a solenoid and heavy enough wire to power the fed contact, you can also use the solenoid to break all switched loads, electric fans, water pump, fuel pump(s), etc.
If you do this, and only use a relay, you can undoubtedly hide the relay under the cowl with the starter relay
So the way this works, if EITHER the key or disconnect is off, the engine cannot possibly run. If the disconnect is pulled, there is NO power outside the trunk area
