8.75 Rear End for A Body?

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You done good!LBP A-body axels are $300 alone.I,d just run a deeper backspaced rim as was already mentioned.
 
younggun2.0 said:
i would box it up and ship it to moser. think they charge 125 to narrow the housing and 80 to cut and respline the axles.
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autoxcuda said:
At that point, he could have saved money and bought a cheaper C-body rear end.

And I doubt there is room on the axle shafts to re-spline an existing 65-67 axles. There are certain C-body, truck, and van axles that are used for that process.
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So what your saying is it just too close to A body width to narrow it? I see there is a place close to here that does that sort of thing.Don't see any wheels I like with that much backspacing. Like the solid wheel type outlaw 1. Don't like to show off my ugly drum brakes.:scratch:
 
Lelo Dart said:
So what your saying is it just too close to A body width to narrow it? I see there is a place close to here that does that sort of thing.Don't see any wheels I like with that much backspacing. Like the solid wheel type outlaw 1. Don't like to show off my ugly drum brakes.:scratch:
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The housing can be narrowed. But you will need new axles. For old axle to be resplined they have to be long enough to have meat on a certain section that will allow the old axle to just be cut and resplined. Cut and resplining is cheaper than new axles usually. Check with your shop ahead of time.

It's better selling what you have for $250 and going to buy a C-body or Van rear end for $100-$150 or less. Put that $100-$150 difference into the cost of shortenend, resplining or new axles.

The 65-67 rear end is a desirable piece. Especially to the 62-65 B-body guys. The 62-64 8-3/4 rear ends have a tapered flange drum deal that is a pain in the butt and more expensive to find brake parts for.


John Kunkel

Registered User

The first 3 inches of the axle shaft are too small for resplining so the axle has to be at least 3" longer than the desired final length.

In the case of the A body, the finished shaft length is 28" so the donor shaft has to be at least 31". Shorter shafts sometimes work if they don't have a step-down outboard if the splines but it's iffy.

Some candidates:

'71-'73 B body wagon= 31 21/64"

'70-'73 C body= 31 21/64" (and '69 wagon)

'70-'74 E body = 29 31/32"

'65-'71 D100= 31 1/8"

'72-'74 D100= 31 21/64
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http://www.moparchat.com/forums/showthread.php?t=111062

more: http://www.moparaction.com/tech/quest/AXIS_OF_AXLES.html
 
Lelo Dart said:
I see. Thanks. And I found out its 3.21 and Sure-grip. Never know what your going to get.
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Should be a 3.23 if it is a center drop out round back 8 3/4 rear end.

A 8 1/4 or 9 1/4 rear end with a removable back cover will have 3.21 gear.

Anyways a 8 3/4 489 case 3.23 with sure grip is a good deal for $250 alone. Now sell whats left of the rear end for $200 or trade with someone a C-body rear plus $125-$150 cash to you.

Did the rear you get have backing plates for the drum brakes? Did it have the U-bolt plates?
 
No, none of that. No brakes, no plates. I didn't open it up. I just spun the yoke and counted. 3.25 turns for one turn of the axle, then I turned the axle and they turned the same way. I'll pull the case out today. So 8 3/4 rear C bodies or vans sell pretty cheap huh?
 
autoxcuda said:
What is the flange to flange measurement of the bare housing:

'65-'67 B-body= 54 1/4"

Also measure each axle tip to tip. Since they were loose, don't assume they are correct for that housing.

Go of this list posted by Abodyjoe:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showpost.php?p=1969769002&postcount=14
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54 1/4 exactly. Also measured the axles and they were spot on too. I measured my 7 1/4 back of drum to back of drum and it was aprox 50" give or take. I've only got about an inch from my tire to my fender right now.
 
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