Auto To 4 Speed Swap Thread! A full write up including prices!

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70dusterpink

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I just got my 67 barracuda.. its my daily driver.. 318/904/4.10

im swapping it over to a A833OD...
I noticed while looking threw all the threads no one has a full write up and swap done from a auto to a manual. some go about halfway and stop...

Im going to document my whole swap here.. I havent even started yet.. but have most of the parts on the way!

The parts needed!

1. The transmission
2. the bell
3. Z bar
4. pedal assembly
5. bar from pedals to z bar
6. bar from z bar to clutch fork
7. clutch fork
8. clutch (comes with TO bearing)
9. shifter
10. linkages
11. floor hump
12. ball stud
13. frame bracket
14. Flywheel
15. yoke (if swapping from a 904)

I beleive that is everything needed to swap over a auto 904 to a manual.. if anyone sees something missing let me know!


OK Lets get started Collecting parts!!!!

I got everything above except for the transmission and clutch all from a member on here... COST $625 shipped waiting on there arrivial..


I am going to look at two A833OD this weekend... one is a cast iron case and the other a aluminum case... will pull inspection cover.. which ever is cleaner i will buy...

I ordered the clutch from autozone... stock replacement $136! it should last behind my mild 318

thats it for now! Any input i will apricate... this is my first auto to manual swap.. on a mopar..
 
Driveshaft
Yoke for trans.
 
Yoke is on the list...number 15...

Is the driveshaft different length? From a 904 to a833?
 
Yes,
The best thing is to install everything and measure up what lenght you need.
Every car will be a little different, spring sag, wear on suspension components etc.
 
Good to know... I hope the 904 shaft is longer then needed... So I can just cut mine down...
 
No I'm gonna use the conversion bearing from brewers for pilot bearing... If my isn't machined... I have no idea yet...

My car is already floor shift....
 
1. The transmission - plus rebuilding costs $$$
2. the bell - plus hardware
3. Z bar - plus bushings
4. pedal assembly - plus pedal pads if needed
5. bar from pedals to z bar
6. bar from z bar to clutch fork
7. clutch fork
8. clutch (comes with TO bearing)
9. shifter - plus handle, ball or t-handle, shifter boot, and trim ring
10. linkages
11. floor hump
12. ball stud
13. frame bracket
14. Flywheel
15. yoke (if swapping from a 904)
16. U joints

I added a few items that could add to the total cost.

Check depth of the hole for the trans input shaft into the crank. Measure the depth of the hole from the rear of the block, then mount the bell to the trans and measure the length of the shaft.

My total cost to do the swap, starting out with nothing, was a little over $1800 and change and I scrounged everywhere for the parts. My Dart was originally a 3 on the tree so the frame bkt for the z-bar was already there. Regarding the trans, I sure hope you don't just buy one and install it based on the sellers info. Oh, it was just rebuilt. Tear it down and do it right the 1st time.
 
When you are done measure the drive shaft.I got one for a A body 4sp you can check out.Living in NJ oyu my be able to come and pick it up.It will be cheap. Mark
 
Thanks for adding some stuff I over looked... I will rebuild the trans.. The kits are cheap enough... The shifter comes with the handle... Not sure about the ball.. Gonna use a cheap mr gasket auto store boot and ring... Defently gonna buy new bushings for the z bar. And all new hardware... Being honest I think I can get this swap done under $1200... We shall see....I'm hoping at least...
 
Dartcuda thanks! I'll be sure to measure and let you know! Hopefully we can work out a deal if needed! Thanks
 
70dusterpink said:
Thanks for adding some stuff I over looked... I will rebuild the trans.. The kits are cheap enough... The shifter comes with the handle... Not sure about the ball.. Gonna use a cheap mr gasket auto store boot and ring... Defently gonna buy new bushings for the z bar. And all new hardware... Being honest I think I can get this swap done under $1200... We shall see....I'm hoping at least...
Click to expand...

I had to buy a new 2nd gear, not cheap so make sure you inspect all of the internals, not just rely on the rebuild kit. Good luck spending under $1.2k.
 
I have the Z-bar with all of the bushings you need if you're interested. I also have an extra driveshaft I can measure for you, in case you need a new one (I know around here, cutting and shortening driveshafts is pretty expensive).
Let me know by PM.
And good luck. Thanks for the thread.

-Mike
 
I plan to check both trannys the same guy has both.. pull the inspection covers and check all the gears and such... I used to be in the mustang t5 rebuilding for friends.. them things blew up all the time!

Thanks for the offer 73swinger... i aquired most of the parts already... just need some little things and the tranny...

o and figure out my bell delemia..
 
UPDATE.

So far I have been collecting parts and have everything except the transmission either in my possesion or on the way!

I placed a order for a new clutch, and have everything on the list. I ordered new bushings for the z bar and hardware to mount the bell to the tranny. I did not order the rebuild kit yet as I do not know which tranny I will end up with the cast iron or the aluminum.

Total Cost to Date $$ 804 this includes everything but the tranny, new DS (if needed) and u joints, and the tranny rebuild kit, and a shift ball.


PS the tranny i am looking at are $150 or $75 depending on which one I go with... one is big spline the other small.. Will update tomorrow after I pick up one of the trannies...

 
QUOTE: 318/904/4.10

Does this mean your running 4:10 gears it the rear and it's a daily driver?And if so why the OD and not a standard 833?Help me understand the reasoning.
 
Pressure plate bolts are special shoulder bolts. Don't use regular bolts.

Flywheel bolts and washers are also different .

have nuts welded to the lower cover they were a problem.

There are two different forks they look the same but geometry is different.

Aluminum shifter bracket on trans is a-body only and different for indy to hurst shifter.

All Z bars must be tweaked as per the aplication in every car.

Early fork steel washers are better for performance but the later rubber give less pedal vibration

If you take both trans you can make a alumunum 4spd with some weld and machine work. to the case

The most important advice I can give you is use as much original hardware you can. any after market linkage or threaded parts must be broke and tig welded back on or problems will arise. I do a lot of swaps. The threads are press welded on not threaded and they break off with heavy use. new rubber parts are good all repo steel are weak. they look nice but flex or break do to poor steel quality..

I did pm you my number a couple of times to try and complete your swap.

also don't forget the reverse harness and dash warning light.

Locate the hump after the shifter is mounted and adjusted. A little off front to back or side to side will cause interference. You can call me. Steve
 
yup. I am running a 1967 barracuda as my daily driver..

its a 318 with a cam, headers, and intake...
has a 904 with a manual valve body...
has a 8 3/4 rear... with 4.10 gears..

the OD a833 is so i can get the rpms down where i can take it on longer trips to the mall (20 miles) and further and have a passanger i can talk to haha. Right now at 60 mph im at close to 3600rpm... switching to a OD a833 will bring that down close to 2400
 
oldmanmopar... i never got any of the PMs. I even sent i think 3 to you. I do recieve pms from other though.. Thats very strange! i know your close to. I will try and send you another PM now.

I appriciate all the help you guys can give.. I will need some for sure i know it. I will get all the parts needed before tearing it apart. hoping to knock the swap out in a weekend.
 
70dusterpink said:
yup. I am running a 1967 barracuda as my daily driver..

its a 318 with a cam, headers, and intake...
has a 904 with a manual valve body...
has a 8 3/4 rear... with 4.10 gears..

the OD a833 is so i can get the rpms down where i can take it on longer trips to the mall (20 miles) and further and have a passanger i can talk to haha. Right now at 60 mph im at close to 3600rpm... switching to a OD a833 will bring that down close to 2400
Click to expand...


A-833 OD Transmission Gear RATIOS Overdrive (mid-1970s and newer)
3.09-----1.67----1.000----.73

I'm trying to understand so with the OD having a 3:09 first running 4:10 gears you'll have to shift in about 2 seconds and I'm not real sure that you'll have enough momentum for the big drop to 2nd gear and your 2400 RPM figure doesn't sound correct.I'd be changing the rear gears to maybe a 3:55
 
The ratio shouldn't be a problem... For instance most fox body owners run 3.73 or 4.10 gears... A standard t5 is 3.35 first gear to a 1.98 2nd...

If I put it in and it sucks... I'll just swap it... But it shouldn't be to much of a issue...

As far as rpm... With a .73 overdrive... 4.10 gears... 25" tire.. At 60mph.. The rpms will be 2414....
 
I bought a '76 Aspen wagon w/the iron case OD A-833 just for all the mechanical parts to swap my '85 AHB Gran Fury to 4-speed...$300, then sold parts off the car and the hulk-made $20. Cool, I am reading this...
 
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