Painless wire harness install (MORE PROGRESS)

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thanks alot. it has been a really rewarding project. i started with little to no knowledge of auto wiring and with alot of research and the help of the guys on here it has actually been pretty fun. powering up the harness for the first time today and having no fuses blow and everything working like it should was a great feeling.
 
your ground stud for the rear battery is definitely...unique... never seen it done like that! LOL

nice work on the MSD ignition panel.
 
mopardude318 said:
your ground stud for the rear battery is definitely...unique... never seen it done like that! LOL

nice work on the MSD ignition panel.
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Yes, I Like it. Get out the torque wrench and set it to 100lbs "Exaggeration".... You will never loose ground!!
I also like the BIG wire for ground at the Engine to Frame Rail.
 
I wanna know, where do you find those heavy negative battery cables with the "cast copper" ends. those things are neat. I want some...
 
mopardude318 said:
what kinda cable are you using?
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it is 1/0 fine stranded wire. got it at the local mclendon hardware years ago. that is why it looks a bit beat up. it was in the car when it was painted. still have to go back and clean it up. at $6 a foot i will use it again.
 
mopardude318 said:
I wanna know, where do you find those heavy negative battery cables with the "cast copper" ends. those things are neat. I want some...
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here is the info i copied and pasted from the summit racing web site. they are super easy to use and you never have to worry about a crimp coming loose or buying an expensive crimping tool.


Manufacturer's Part Number:1852
Part Type:Battery Terminals
Product Line:ACCEL Battery Cable Terminals
Summit Racing Part Number:ACC-1852

Battery Cable Terminal Style:Eyelet
Battery Terminal Size:3/8 in.
Battery Terminal Material:Lead
Battery Cable Terminal Gauge:1-1/0 gauge
Quantity:Sold as a set of 4.
These ACCEL battery cable terminals feature an easy-to-use compression fitting--simply twist and turn them on to the ACCEL Lightning cables. They are available in 1/0-gauge, 2-gauge, and 4-gauge sizes, so we have every possible configuration covered. Made from heavy-duty lead, these ACCEL battery cable terminals will maintain high conductivity to and from your battery.
Warranty


Manufacturer's Part Number:1860
Part Type:Battery Terminals
Product Line:ACCEL Battery Cable Terminals
Summit Racing Part Number:ACC-1860

Battery Cable Terminal Style:post
Battery Terminal Material:Copper
Battery Cable Terminal Gauge:1-1/0 gauge
Quantity:Sold as a pair.
These ACCEL battery cable terminals feature an easy-to-use compression fitting--simply twist and turn them on to the ACCEL Lightning cables. They are available in 1/0-gauge, 2-gauge, and 4-gauge sizes, so we have every possible configuration covered. Made from heavy-duty lead, these ACCEL battery cable terminals will maintain high conductivity to and from your battery.
 
Mad Dart said:
Yes it will work fine.
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I read alot about it after i did it and the common consensus is that aluminum is indeed a great conductor. the only problem that may occur is the reaction with the water in my cooling system. I plan on running straight water with water wetter in the summer months and anti-freeze and water in the winter months. so I will not have the same coolant in long enough to have a problem. i am going to run another ground wire from the rear valley pan bolts to the fire wall as well.
 
I think how we do maintenance on our Old cars you will not have a problem with corrosion at all. Shoot my oil is usually in the car for a couple weeks at the max cuzz when it is running I run the dog snot out of it, making sure I have good clean oil will prolong the engines life and it will be ready for the next thrashing. Same goes for your cooling system, service the radiator at regular intervals and you will be just fine.
 
the way i ran my wires i needed very few crimp fittings. all i really used was ring terminals. i just went to local auto part store and got the heat schrink with solder fittings. most of my wires go to molex style plugs. i heat shrink tubed all my fittings also. i probably spent 45 bucks total on crimp fittings.
 
just wait till you see the engine bay wiring. there is only 3 wires......... putting everything under the dash was so worth it.
 
younggun2.0 said:
I read alot about it after i did it and the common consensus is that aluminum is indeed a great conductor. the only problem that may occur is the reaction with the water in my cooling system. I plan on running straight water with water wetter in the summer months and anti-freeze and water in the winter months. so I will not have the same coolant in long enough to have a problem. i am going to run another ground wire from the rear valley pan bolts to the fire wall as well.
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don't know if this will help you or not but I have learn to use distilled water in radiators..1.00 a gal. at your local wally world... the reason is that reg. water out most taps are hard and will rust or corr... I know because on my dump truck I had to buy a new surge tank(res.) cause the water rusted it out...got a new tank refilled antif. and tap water again same thing happen.. ask the parts guy why they rust out like that.. he explain to me how it works and I have had distilled in my truck every since no problem...will be going in my cars as I need to replace the anti. ....so that maybe something to think on..like I said its a 1.00 a gal. at most stores..by the way great work on the wiring.. want to come out and wire the race car soon..lol:D
 
earthmover said:
don't know if this will help you or not but I have learn to use distilled water in radiators..1.00 a gal. at your local wally world... the reason is that reg. water out most taps are hard and will rust or corr... I know because on my dump truck I had to buy a new surge tank(res.) cause the water rusted it out...got a new tank refilled antif. and tap water again same thing happen.. ask the parts guy why they rust out like that.. he explain to me how it works and I have had distilled in my truck every since no problem...will be going in my cars as I need to replace the anti. ....so that maybe something to think on..like I said its a 1.00 a gal. at most stores..by the way great work on the wiring.. want to come out and wire the race car soon..lol:D
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sure, fly me out and feed me and keep the beer on tap and you got it. lol.
 
younggun,

that is all looking great, very clean. I hope mine turns out that nice, I would be thrilled. I plan to start next week. I should finally have all my crimpers, wires and shrink wrap by then.

Just Curious... What is your plan to mount the wires under the fender, trying to figure the best method?

JOE
 
i havn't quite decided yet. i am looking at running them in the inside of the front frame rail. not inside the rail itself but attached to the inside edge. i am thinking about getting some 1/2" aluminum tube and bending it to follow the frame rail and painting it to match. it would be very easy/cheap to do.
 
tonight i got the kill switch mounted. the switch is water proof but i will be making a splash guard for it. here are some pictures.

killswitch004_zpsefaceaf6.jpg


killswitch002_zps3ecdfa7c.jpg


killswitch001_zpsc5df7f0d.jpg


killswitch003_zpse5bf149e.jpg
 
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